If you were to consult Facebook, it would tell you one of the most important stories of the year in Monterey County food and drink was the fact I discovered a 15-inch burrito at Baldemiro’s in Seaside. Fortunately, Facebook clicks don’t dictate content here. The true top five epicurean storylines appear below, trimmed to fit. The uncut version – along with the complete top 10, including developments in French fusion and Marina’s Dunes – appears on the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible.
5. Local seaweed takes anchor.
For centuries some of the longest-living humans on the planet have prized seaweed for its antioxidants, B12 and minerals as much as they did the flavors. Dr. Michael Graham, director of research and development at Moss Landing Marine Lab’s Center for Aquaculture, has been obsessed with kelp for decades. But only this year did devoutly family-run Monterey Bay Seaweeds launch its restaurant service, taking advantage of rare ocean intake permissions and advanced ocean science at the MLML. His dulse, sea lettuce and ogo have quickly taken prominent positions on the plate at the Central Coast’s best restaurants (think Aubergine, Manresa and Passionfish).
4. Cachagua General Store closes.
Last Sunday, Oct. 16, the last day the store side of CGS would stand open (the restaurant side shut down the previous Monday), a light rain coated the greasy broken kitchen equipment, ice chests and a catering van in the driveway. Inside bombastic Exec Chef Michael Jones and his wife Amanda Girard Jones surveyed the wreckage and seemed relieved to be leaving the decrepit building, as the roof looks ready to come down in one corner and it smells of rot in another. “Any residual sadness dispersed when it started raining,” Jones says, “and it was raining just as hard in the bathroom.” More on the blog.
3. Joyce lays out epic property.
Thanks to Wine Spectator love (for a 2015 Riesling) and the buildout of its Salinas production space (for a tasting bar and lounge), it was already a big year for Joyce Vineyards. But then newlyweds Russell and Charlotte Joyce – along with her parents Ray and Liza Beshoff and sisters Rachel and Meagan – bought the massive Jan de Luz garden-fountain-patio super store across from the Bernardus tasting room in the heart of Carmel Valley Village. The re-envisioned property will include three different but cohesive epicurean businesses in its buildings: a wine bar with a cosmopolitan selection, Joyce’s relocated tasting room in a 3,000-square-foot space and a Testarossa Winery tasting room in the third spot. Los Gatos-based Testarossa makes some of the most celebrated Pinot Noir in the state, but it was its close local connections that vacuum-sealed the deal. Parts of the complex could open as soon as Thanksgiving, including big patios and outdoor bars.
2. Downtown Monterey catches fire.
Not on fire like the T.A. Work Building, but on fire as in the hottest place for new food concepts – particularly fast casual (see story, p. 26). New line-out-the-door Poke Lab helped touch off a raw-fish boom that now includes Poke House in Marina (opened Sept. 28) and Poke Time in New Monterey (opening by end of the year). Alvarado Ramen (Sept. 14) frequently fills more than 400 bowls with noodles a day. Alvarado Street Brewery added a booming beer garden. Jacks and Peter B’s in Portola Hotel got a new star chef, a new star brewmaster and a new concept. Brand-new Nuernberg German Sausages continues to wow skeptics. Bakai Tapas, also new, does superb wine and tapas a little more quietly on Tyler. Crepes of Brittanymoved to a bigger spot and its army of fans grew with it. Bay of Pines reopened with an excellent performance schedule and just hired Chef Ernesto Marquez, who wants to give foundational European cuisine a California twist. Cibo Ristorante became the latest to add a boisterous sidewalk patio. Revival Ice + Cream opened last week to breathless enthusiasm. The new Conference Center, the city’s biggest-ever capital project, isn’t done yet (it will be in spring) – though the T.A. Work building revamp is completely finished.
1. Stars chart new orbits.
It was a simultaneously expected and stunning development: Expected because toiling talents will eventually be ready for their own projects; stunning for their sudden speed and contemporary savvy. The catalysts came from the two best restaurants in the area at around the same time. Former sommelier and manager Sarah Kabat Marcy left Sierra Mar to launch mezcal-driven and Oaxaca-inspired Cultura Comida y Bebida in Carmel, ultimately joined by Sierra chefs Michelle Estigoy and John Cox. The daring-but-wise wine list, small-batch mezcals and rich molés proved so magnetic exec chefs like Kyle Odell and Matt Glazer signed on to be bartenders.
The other top spot (Aubergine) lost a star pastry chef (Ron Mendoza), who as of last week is serving things like beeswax-honeycomb milkshakes and Vietnamese coffee ice cream sundaes – made entirely in-house – on Alvarado in Monterey (see #3). Part of the delicious aftermath: Pastry master Yulanda Santos moved from Sierra Mar to Aubergine and Ben Spungin came over to Sierra Mar from 1833 and Coastal Luxury Management.
What a year. And more than two months remain.
QUICKBITES
- The landmark Stokes Adobe that houses Restaurant 1833 (643-1833) is on sale for $3.65 million, though the restaurant isn’t. More on the blog.
- Peter B’s Brewpub has been awarded an American-Style fruit beer silver medal at the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) 2016 for its Miss IPPA.
- This will sell out: jeninni kitchen + wine bar (920-2662) hosts master somm Chris Blanchard Sunday, Oct. 23, for a night of fried chicken, biscuits, mac ‘n’ cheese, collard greens and quince tarts for a very reasonable $36++.
- Last Wednesday of every month (like Oct. 26), Alvarado Street Brewery does Brews for Books: $1 from house drafts goes to Monterey Public Library.
- Taste of Spain strolling dinner 5:30-9pm Thursday, Oct. 27 at Estéban ($89, 324-6773), features paella on the patio by Chef Tom Snyder, bocadillos, pintxos, and desserts, Hahn wines,Tequila Partida margaritas, Spanish guitar.
- The Wine Experience (324-4974) hosts the Monster Blend Bash ($25-50), a costume-encouraged event held 7-10 pm Oct. 22. Partygoers can blend any four red wines, receive coaching and tools on selection process, and enjoy themed appetizers.
- Arroyo Seco’s Mesa Del Sol earned some Wine Enthusiast love with a 92 for its 2011 Late Harvest Zinfandel ($30) and a 91 for the 2012 Zinfandel ($38). It also hosted some big love with the rainbow-framed wedding of Kelly McKay and Wesley Schweikhard last weekend.
- One Starfish (324-4664) holds a brunch ($25) to benefit homeless women on Oct. 23: French toast, eggs, bacon, sausage, and drinks for good.
- Red’s Donuts offers six fancy and six regular donuts ($8) on Wednesdays and Thursdays. More Red’s rock on p. 20.
- Domenico’s on the Wharf (372-3655) does a solid three-course locals special ($14.95) Monday through Thursday.
- Each week Turn 12 Bar and Grill (372-8876) features a unique burger not on their usual menu. Last week it was ground brisket, this week it’s elk.
- John Wooden: “Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out.”

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