Carmel’s Cultura continues to thrive after a decade by keeping things consistent.

One of the most anticipated restaurants of 2016 was a scaled-up Oaxacan kitchen from a team from the fine dining destination Sierra Mar. Rather than promise a rigid allegiance to tradition, they were inspired by contemporary chefs of the region.

It was an intriguing concept – not fusion, not Americanization, but a question of how urban Mexican chefs might address the seasonal ingredients of Monterey County. At the time, the Weekly tabbed it as the area’s “sexiest” new restaurant.

Little has changed after 10 years at Cultura Comida y Bebida.

“We’ve never had a freezer – well, we have a small one,” says Sarah Kabat-Marcy. “What do we keep in there?”

“A bag of plantains,” her husband, Michael Marcy, responds.

“When we started we had caviar service, Wagyu and some elevated items,” Kabat-Marcy observes. “We’re a little more approachable.”

Several dishes have graced the menu from the very beginning. Tacos, enchiladas and mole are staples, of course, as is ceviche. Chapulines – toasted grasshoppers – have been a shock value dare for newcomers or a casual snack for those in the know.

Skirt steak is another core offering. It gives every impression of time over an open flame, rustic and swarthy. Guajillo lends a gentle smoke – a waft from the chimney of a house in the woods, with stands of pine, some wild fruit and a faintly bitter, wavering heat. Who really needs Wagyu?

Chef and business partner Michelle Estigoy changes plates with the seasons. So the ceviche may be halibut or rock cod, the side of sweet corn could turn out to be fingerling potatoes. Everything, including the tortillas, are prepared from scratch.

“That’s one thing we will never compromise on,” Kabat-Marcy says.

Even craft cocktails are subject to seasonal whims. El Sergio Leone – a mezcal-laced tribute to the legendary director of Clint Eastwood’s spaghetti Westerns – dropped from the menu recently, but the cocktail is a reminder of the venue’s past.

Kabat-Marcy’s family is from Monterey County. After the partners signed a lease for the space, her mother took a tour.

“My mother said, ‘Sarah, this was Carmel’s first Mexican restaurant.’”

Su Vecino’s opened in the 1950s. For a good portion of its life, the sarape Eastwood wore in Leone’s The Good, The Bad and The Ugly was a decorative attraction.

Marcy and Kabat-Marcy credit Cultura’s longevity to consistent quality from Estigoy’s kitchen and the bar staff, as well as the others who make up the team.

“We’ve only had to hire one new server in the past five years,” Kabat-Marcy says, to which her husband points out, “They have the same expectations that we do.”

Despite the popularity of Su Vecino’s, Kabat-Marcy notes that many residents remained unaware of Mexico’s regional cuisines, even into the 2000s. Leaning toward Oaxaca was a natural given Estigoy’s ties to the area.

For the current menu, the team added a few traditional Oaxacan dishes, including tlayuda and memelitas. A server was enthusiastic about the latter, and for good reason.

The sturdy tortilla – they bring out a steak knife – supports an earthy, sonorous and plush spread of black bean purée and aciento, a smoky, briny and rich pork paste with crispy pops of cracklings. Salsa macha lends a resonance to this, as well as a sly, rumbling heat, while complementing the nuttiness of the tortilla.

So Cultura changes, but does so within its original bounds. That’s part of the consistency that keeps the restaurant popular. And it’s not always easy, particularly when a grand opening is followed by pandemic and skyrocketing food costs. The skirt steak that sold for $25 in 2016 lists for $52 today – a price adjustment out of necessity, and only made recently.

After a decade, the couple readily admits that you have to have “a few screws loose” to run a restaurant. But the commitment to “cultura” – not just the regional tradition, but the culture that develops around the business itself – continues.

“Our team keeps us going,” Marcy says. “It sounds boring, but when people have a great experience, when they come back, when they tell others about us – that’s why you do it.”

CULTURA COMIDA Y BEBIDA, 574 Lincoln St., Carmel. (831) 250-7005, culturacarmel.com.