Ham Quiche
Quiche is a delicate dish – a downy custard, flaunting the gentle richness of fresh eggs, with wisps of sweet smoke and biting grassiness from bits of bacon and cheese, while a buttery crust lends warmth.
It’s rustic, yet also petite.
Well, this isn’t that kind of quiche. What Victorian Corner serves is quiche as if thought up by an American – and not just any old Yank, but Bruce Feirstein, famous for his 1982 book Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche.
Puffed to two or three times more bulk than the traditional Lorraine, the restaurant’s ham quiche carries the heft of a casserole. Tiles of ham offer a mellow sweetness that counters the brazen bite of melted cheese that threads throughout the slice, muscling out the graceful savor of egg. Oh, and there is no crust to contend with.
You might be thrown off at first. But the quiche quickly wins your affection. This is a substantial thing – brawny, filling and thoroughly satisfying. While daunting at first, the filling has an airy quality. It becomes as familiar as ham and cheese.
The “real men” of Feirstein’s satirical hit would make and eat this quiche.
Victorian Corner, 541 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove. 372-4641, victoriancornerpg.com

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