Taste 07.05.18

Squid Burrito

Taqueria Del Mar is a sanctuary for seafood among local taquerias. The longtime restaurant, which has been family-owned for 33 years, is a simple and small place with about 20 seats. But it enjoys something of a cult following for its seasonal squid burrito.

Like its unassuming surroundings, the squid burrito is unassuming upon arrival, but what you find inside the tortilla is a completely different story.

It’s packed full with locally-sourced squid from Pacific Seafood in Marina, a bright and herbal pico de gallo, lots of shredded cabbage, shredded cheese and dill sauce, which gives it a mild sweetness. The whole package is reminiscent of fresh ceviche, but warm, filling and all wrapped up.

Laly Gasca slices squid steak and grills it with cilantro and tomato, and the flavors are balanced, giving you glimpses of seashore and garden in each bite.

While it’s a decent size for $9.99, and should be considered a hearty meal, it is not a bloated dish. Instead of going for bulk, the kitchen offers flavor. But be aware: The squid burrito is seasonal. “Some people get upset if we don’t have it, but most understand that we get it fresh,” Gasca says.

TAQUERIA DEL MAR, 530 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. 372-7887.

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