When the tasty taco shop finally opened, it delivered such stellar secret-recipe flavor to its signature shrimp that it melted a subpopulation of Mexican-food-loving hearts.
When the kimchi finally arrived at our table, its magic carpet cabbage carried the delay away with a rush of ginger, garlic and chili flavor.
And when a particular dinner bell finally rang, its concept vibrated through Carmel, largely because it meant roast chicken and tofu panzanella served in a way the Hamlet-by-the-Sea hasn’t had.
The last 18 months have seen more Monterey County restaurants open than any comparable stretch since Bert Cutino and Ted Balestreri first slicked back their hair, many of them keepers like jennini kitchen + wine bar, BigSur Roadhouse and El Cantaro Vegan Mexican in Pacific Grove, Big Sur and New Monterey, respectively.
But three much-awaited additions – said tasty taco shop, fancy Korean spot and dinner bell – opening in one day, a Sunday no less, sets an unofficial record for the entire area.
And it’s quite possible all three are here to stay.
~ ~ ~
It was unlikely the grand opening of Soban Grill and Bar (624-3318) was going to go smoothly.
Korean-American owner Hank Kim took over the space formerly occupied by Carmel Bar & Grill, Bixby’s and Thunderbird Books after doing beautifully in a much smaller spot in downtown Monterey, Sushi Moto (646-1109).
Chaos was easy to anticipate given the calm ahead of last week’s soft opening, which was canceled, and even as recently as last week, when the bar remained unstaged and the kitchen quiet.
And so it arrived. As one restaurant industry vet texted me from the restaurant Sunday, “Holy omg is this a bad opening… Food I had was solid… atmosphere and service was horrific… ”
I went by Monday, bracing for more chaos – and, per usual, not looking to critically dissect the place, as the Weekly waits three months for a review and does it anonymously. Instead of chaos, it was back to calm. Too much to be comforting. Two tables were occupied in a space that can seat 200.
The good news there: We’d have plenty of attention – and we did, eventually, as each of three servers on the floor stopped by to take our order. It took 20 minutes to get some superb soju on a recommendation from Kim, and longer to get some food going. Not impossible for opening week, but surprising given the headcount.
Once the food did come, it approached remarkable, worthy of the restaurant tagline “High End Korean Restaurant: No MSG, fresh local ingredients.” (The other part of the tagline: Sake | Beer | Wine | Cocktails | Soju” needs a little work – while the clean Korean soju was splendid, the domestic down-label bottles on display behind the bar are scary.)
The daenjang soup was similar, but better, than miso ($2). The snow crab chobop ($6, like two pieces of nigiri) was fresh, generous and gone quickly. The seven broiled green lip mussels ($8) were spot-on, with a nice smoky flavor. The five small nibbly dishes that came alongside the beef dolsot bibimbab in a sizzling stone bowl ($17) were exciting, interesting and appetizing. The dolsot itself, once properly sauced, was an explosion of flavor to rival the kimchi – and my mouth waters just thinking about the torrent of heat and long-fermented flavor in the house fermented cabbage, which we ultimately requested “thirds” of (complimentary, and small, for now). The deep-fried tofu ($5), layered with shaved ribbons of dried bonito, was crazy silky and deliciously sweet. Soban was out of maki rolls like “The Barnyard Dream” ($10) with tuna, crab meat, avocado and quail eggs.
Some of the items look overpriced, but our two-top strategically over-ate for less than $50 (not including the comped soju or tip). The best part: We felt full and completely satisfied, but not stuffed at all.
~ ~ ~
There is something revelatory about the way the first few days have gone at Taqueria Zarape (899-1125) in the former Curly’s on North Fremont in Seaside.
It’s not a surprise that a close-knit family has handled sizeable crowds with smooth execution, admirable consistency and strong flavor, as they’ve opened successful taco joints Taqueria Agave on Soquel Avenue in Santa Cruz andTacos Gallos Uno y Dos in Scotts Valley. And it’s not a shock that the standout dish among sturdy tacos, burritos, tostadas, fajitas, nachos and quesadillas is the shrimp taco ($3.50). Co-owner Mario Ruiz told me it would be, thanks to a secret soy sauce-mayo-spiced butter that cooks into the medium-sized shrimp (and tilapia fish tacos too, which are also $3.50), leaving it full of flavor with none of the grease.
What’s been more eye-catching are the lunch rushes.
There is a partial explanation for that: It’s next to the Weekly, which means I’ve had a front-row seat from the second story. Which means I can see Alma Ruiz hustling around the kitchen now. Which means I was there, all “¡Tengo hambre!” style, Monday morning, thinking I was their first customer (they opened Sunday) – and bringing back a bacon breakfast plate ($7.25), carnitas torta ($6.25), al pastor taco ($2.25) and a fish taco-shrimp taco plate ($8.50) for the people. By now essentially everyone on staff has visited.
When I asked colleagues how having a quality taqueria steps from the office makes them feel, the answers included “Like Monday is Friday,” “sleepy” and “I’m going to go broke, $2.50 at a time.” Lucky us, they’re open 9am-10pm daily.
But still: Weekly neighborly bounce aside, the strong response told me Monterey County countrymen love a great taco, even (and maybe more) if it is a little anglicized. And Seaside apparently is home to some taco lovers – and now, one of the better salsa bars, stacked with robust red sauces, pickled carrots and jalapeños, and a nice tomatillo-avocado number – short of San Jose.
“We do everything from scratch,” co-owner Carlos Ruiz says, “and we do everything here.”
~ ~ ~
Carmel Belle has been open for years, so the addition of the Dinner Belle, aka 4-7pm dinner service five nights a week (Sunday-Thursday), is more of a half-opening. (For the record, since I round up from 2.5, that still makes three debuts in one day.)
That’s also what boosts its chances for success: These guys aren’t trying to reinvent cuisine as we know it, or even tinker with their own formula. They know the best ideas are simple ones, and the best food is uncomplicated and sourced from impeccable places. Like one half of the young mom-and-pop op, Jay Dolata, says, “Simple is kind of what we do.”
The irony there: Taking what they do – rustic, straighforward treats like Fra’Mani sausage-Vermont cheddar melts ($9.25) and roasted tomato-house mozarella salads ($10) ordered at the counter and able to be enjoyed informally and quickly – and extending it to dinner is rather revolutionary for Carmel. Unless you count delis, you can’t get a wholesome, organic meal (of restaurant quality) without the big restaurant sticker price and pressures of tableside service.
“We love adding another resource,” says the shot-calling half of the restaurant, Chloe Dolata. “We’re not trying to be a full-on restaurant. We’re looking to help out people who live and work here.”
Opening night, new dinner chef Kyle Odell – a veteran of Ritz Carlton in San Fran, Casanova in Carmel and Commis in Oakland, among other spots – served Mary’s organic roasted chicken breast, marinated in rosemary, lemon and garlic with a natural pan jus ($12), and quinoa mac-and-cheese, with organic quinoa macaroni, aged fiscalini cheddar with a crispy gratin crust ($10). It was dished in a newly expanded space, which comes complete with a slick new juice bar you can read more about on the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible. (Try the The Dr. Feel Good with carrot, pineapple and turmeric, $5, before it rotates out.)
On Tuesday, a colleague and I tried everything they offered. The market-vegetable lasagna ($10) daringly deployed a soft-and-sweet marscapone-like cheese that was surprisingly good but sacrificed cohesion with the eggplant and zucchini (more mushrooms please!). The natural beef pot roast ($13) wowed with earthy, unadulterated flavor and impressive juiciness. The roasted root vegetables ($6) – turnip, potato and carrot – were solid. The tofu panzanella ($8) with heirlooms and cucumber reminded me everything is better with croutons. Sizewise, the entrees could satisfy two lighter appetites (with sides) or be wolfed by a hungry eater; the sides work as modest entrees or are shareable for a pair. Think mini family style.
A new eatery triathlon – three new places in as many meals – could be tiring. Not so with these spots. Energizing and satisfying is more like it.
~ QUICKBITES ~
• The 31 best places to watch the World Cup in Monterey County are now up on the food blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible. Add La Tortuga to it (p. 2).
• Cafe Ariana (920-1381) in P.G. now has a sweet patio. More on the blog.
• Lucky’s Roadside (899-5825) lost the guy that saved the restaurant’s opening from disaster when Bill Lee let ex-Exec Chef Michael Whalen go last week. The new top toque is Herman Hernandez, formerly of Casanova and Del Mesa.
• Alexander Smith wines, by the good people at Paraiso, have opened their tasting room (678-0300) in Carmel – Court of the Golden Bough, Ocean between Lincoln and Monte Verde.
• The 10th annual Carmel Valley Art & Wine Celebration flows 11am-5pm Saturday, June 21. See p. 29.
• De Tierra Vineyards (622-9704) celebrates solstice 5-8pm June 21 with select wines, picnic-style appetizers and live music ($30; $25 club members).
• Congrats Kelly Rose and Matthew Lamont Evans. And nice work Jeffrey’s Grill & Catering (624-2029) and Campagno’s (375-5987) on the goodies.
• Flatbread with smoked salmon and goat cheese, carnaroli rice with shrimp, crab and smoked salmon oil + lamb chops with mint salmoriglio are among the treats for Il Fornaio’s (622-5100) pairing with vine pioneer Dan Lee andMorgan Winery Thursday, June 26 ($70).
• Flavor haven and sister-brother hub Baum & Blume (659-0400) has a biergarten coming 3-7pm Thursday, Friday and Saturday June 28 through September, with a range of different organic, Belgium and/or German bottled beers ($5-$8.50) to pair with small plates like housemade Bavarian pretzels, hot grilled corn smothered in chipotle, white clam pizza, short-rib empanadas and jalapeño-smoked salmon tartar ($4-$8).
• We knew Holman Ranch was a stunning property. Weddingindustryexperts.com visitors thinks it’s even better, voting it the second best vineyard venue in the… entire world. Solid Pinot, too.
• Like author Shannon Alder once said: “All great beginnings start in the dark, when the moon greets you to a new day at midnight.”

(0) comments
Welcome to the discussion.
Log In
Keep it Clean. Please avoid obscene, vulgar, lewd, racist or sexually-oriented language.
PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.
Don't Threaten. Threats of harming another person will not be tolerated.
Be Truthful. Don't knowingly lie about anyone or anything.
Be Nice. No racism, sexism or any sort of -ism that is degrading to another person.
Be Proactive. Use the 'Report' link on each comment to let us know of abusive posts.
Share with Us. We'd love to hear eyewitness accounts, the history behind an article.