Revival Ice + Cream

They say don’t fix something if it ain’t broke, but ice cream is one of those gray areas. It’s like pizza – even when it’s bad, it’s good. But to take it from good to phenomenal, to open the world’s eyes to a whole new breed of this frozen treat, it takes a special tweak.

With the area’s little foodie explosion, maybe it’s just the right time for an ice cream rebirth, and chef/co-owner of new Revival Ice + Cream Ron Mendoza seems to have spent his life working up to this tasty moment. Many people of Monterey agree, and can be found lining up daily for his cold magic.

This ice cream is out of the ordinary.

It includes a few nostalgic favorites, but with creative twists by the former pastry chef at Aubergine (where his work in their renowned kitchen earned him a James Beard nomination). Mendoza teamed up with Nicole Pahl – who spent five years working with him as the graphic designer and marketing manager at Mirabel Restaurant Group (Aubergine, Cantinetta Luca, 400 Degrees and Salumeria Luca) – to bring his original desserts to a wider swath of the public.

“I’m trying to do the things I was doing in fancy kitchens, for more people,” Mendoza told the Weekly when Revival opened in October. “The thought process is the same thing I’ve always done. I can’t unlearn 17 years.”

The duo’s artistic vibes are clear through the modern décor. Minimalist designs dominate at this latest Alvarado Street joint in clean-cut tones of lime green and white. A splash of mayhem from a giant painting of an ice-cream-eating octopus gives customers something fun to look at as they wait in line. The piece was commissioned by Pahl, she says, “to show off our weird character.”

Revival’s ice cream isn’t cheap, but is priced according to similar boutiques in a few trendy cities. Once you taste the quality, you can swallow the price. A handful of size options range from mini ($2.75) and single ($4) to double ($6), triple ($7.50) and pint ($11). The mini is usually enough for me with several satisfying bites, but for those with a bigger sweet tooth the single is plenty filling.

Cravers of variety: A tasting goes for $12 and involves four scoops of your choice plus toppings. Sundaes run $8, and don’t forget to ask about their ice-cream sandwiches, popsicles, shakes and floats with homemade soda.

Gallons upon gallons of organic Clover milk and cream make the homemade base for experimental flavors such as rose geranium, kelp and caramel and pumpkin butter. Everything is created in small batches from scratch, and brings local, seasonal and interesting ingredients to the forefront.

Some classics can be relied on for a little more permanence, such as the “Heart of Darkness” – effortlessly the best chocolate ice cream I’ve ever eaten. As its name suggests, it will reel you into the dark side with just a touch of sweetness to mellow out the deep, bitter cocoa. French company Valrhona supplies the Coeur de Guanaja, a concentrated chocolate that truly focuses the flavor.

A few other recognizable names include whole bean vanilla and mint, but neither are what you’re thinking. The former cools with its well-balanced sugar ratio in a custardy cream made from bourbon-soaked Tahitian and Madagascar vanilla beans. The latter delivers even more intense refreshment with a swirl of chocolate fudge and bright, lively herbs bold eucalyptus and fresh mint.

Things start getting even more unique with the Vietnamese coffee: This crowd-pleaser’s jolting java awakens the taste buds, while its crunchy chocolate pearls jazz up the texture. On a calmer note comes the smooth sweet potato, an earthy concoction slightly candied by burnt marshmallows and ginger-spiced Danish speculoos cookies.

I keep returning for the “Bees Knees,” which complements the “Heart of Darkness” fabulously. This unprecedented signature creation uses a combination of buzzing elements like bee pollen, crushed honeycomb and burnt honey in beeswax cream that steeps overnight.

Though the dairy is creamy and dreamy, there is something to be said for refreshing sorbets, and Revival always has one thing that’s icy and distinct. Enhanced by a slight saltiness, the Concord grape and peanut butter sorbet is reminiscent of a childhood comfort. The crisp fruitiness of the pineapple guava in a banana sorbet affirms a close second – or third-place winner next to the Heart of Darkness and Bees Knees, but it’s really hard to pick favorites.

It may be strange to think of an ice cream place as farm-to-table, but it is. The milk is sourced from Clover in Petaluma, the coffee from ACME, pineapple guava from Coke Farms and jasmine flowers from Pierce Ranch Vineyards. Mendoza has been in Monterey County’s food industry for quite some time, and has built relationships with many regional farms that are coming in handy.

Good ingredients make good food, and Revival channels that well. This is gourmet nourishment on the grandest scale.

REVIVAL ICE + CREAM 11am-9pm Sun-Thu; 11am-10pm Fri-Sat. 463 Alvarado St., Monterey. 747-2113, www.revivalicecream.com.