There were peacocks and puppies, pink dining rooms and Pinot rosés, a robust farmers market and concurrent barrel festival by the historic Spanish mission.

There were ocean-view vineyards and converted tug-boat barns, newborn teacup sheep and vines older than any winemaker alive.

There were ancient biodynamic methods at work and slick modern marketing in play and two of the best new restaurants in the entire county.

Most importantly, there were superb cool-climate Pinots, robust Zins and wisely uncommon whites.

And there were only 32 hours to get to it all, which made for a fluid media tour in San Luis Obispo county, led by one-time-Weekly-contributor-turned-wine-writer S. Christopher Weir, his wife Malei and their friends at the SLO Wine Country vintners-growers collaborative.

(For visuals of the adventure, see "50 images of 32 hours in SLO Wine Country, California's next big wine lover's crush.")

But it worked in its ultimate aim: To demonstrate, with depth, SLO can and should be California’s next wine discovery – the next Monterey County, if you will.

An apt way to start came at Bassi Ranch with Mike Sinor of Sinor-Lavallee wines, and not just for 2013 Chardonnay ($25), 2013 White Label Pinot ($45) and a first taste of the coastal influence that helps give so many wines we’d try a nice lean and mineral-hinted edge. He furnished a refrain repeated along the trip: Given its location between wine destinations Santa Barbara and Paso Robles, this is “fly-over wine country,” the oenological equivalent of Topeka, Kansas.

I don’t see that continuing. I’ll certainly be back to visit the tour’s next two stops. Number one: Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards, with its down-home picnic tables on the creekside lawn (where bands play regularly); the family feel created by photos of company pointman Keith Kelsey’s grandad, hardhat diving for abalone; of paintings of said divers smooching mermaids on surfboards painted by Kelsey’s niece; the winery housed in the former tugboat repair shop; and peacocks cruising around. Plus many medal-winning wines, though Kelsey draws as much attention for hard ciders and cider-wine blends done with apples that once covered the valley. Number two: Peloton Cellars, for the bicycle-friendly staff and setting, where, from the roof, we tasted through the varietal that made SLO’s name: Chardonnay, with handpicked examples from across region (Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley) and maker (Chamisal, Stephen Ross, Laetitia, Talley, Peloton, Tolosa, $24-$40). They brought power of balance and understatement, overlooking Avila Beach, which is enjoying a mini tasting room boom a la 1990s Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Next: dinner at modern Itali-Cali Ember Restaurant of quaint Arroyo Grande village, from chef-owner Brian Collins, who makes things like rosemary-sumac-rubbed lamb grilled over red oak and says things like “to cook Italian… take a handful of simple ingredients such as dried beans, garlic, parsley, tomato, and breadcrumbs and make angels cry.” Along with it came two winemakers and their favorite juice, including a superb 2012 Autry Cellars Syrah ($36, from Steve Autry) and 2012 Biddle Ranch Pinot ($34, intro’d by Ryan Deovlet).

Seven more stops the next day made a SLOgan – “With its laid-back lifestyle, no one is in a hurry, and certainly no one is in a rush to leave” – a little less true. But between our handlers and the swanky Mercedes Sprinter furnished by Uncorked Wine Tours, things were stacked without getting stuffed. That contributes to a sense SLO wine, 30 years in, is ready for its closeup, small-town charm intact.

That charm stars at deep-off-the-grid Saucelito Canyon, where in 1974 Bill Greenough reclaimed Zin vines planted in 1880 from thick bushes of poison oak – to deep, complex estate and reserve Zin results ($35-$75). And at Sextant Wines, which occupies an old general-store-style spot in historic Old Edna, where the young babydoll sheep (for weed-eating) are the only thing cuter than the historic barn with the sign “POPULATION: Changes Often.” The Sextant Windemere Premier Cuvee Pinot ($25) and X-Series Syrah ($34) pour out old-school style and value to match the hospitality.

Two winemaker-curated tastings bracketed Old Edna, including an adventurous white-wine fan’s dream. Former German studies professors Claiborne Thompson andFredericka Churchill started Claiborne-Churchill in 1981 to honor their non-Chardonnay tastes; they’re now well-positioned to welcome in widening wine audiences seeking atypical aromatics. Six wines, all leaning dry – a Zocker Grüner Veltliner, Tangent Albariño, C&C Reisling, Clesi Pinot Grigio Sinor Pinot Gris and C&C Reisling ($17-$28) – hammered that wisdom home.

Tasting two starred Stephen Ross Dooley of the eponymous vineyard, one of the pioneers of SLO wines. He cherry-picked six of his most characteristic coast-cooled, food-friendly Pinots with Niner Wine Estates associate Molly Bohlman. Both their wines ($20, $35) and Kynsi Precious Stone ($62) stood out.

Things closed with wines poured by Talley winegrower Brian Talley and winemaker John Thunen of Phantom Rivers Wine. Their Pinots ($36, $24)impressed, and so didForemost Wine Company Chef Julie Simon doing things like a full burrata bar, lamb tartare and, oh yes, local crab raviolo with lemon zest pasta and brown butter. Like so much of the weekend, a revelation to savor.

Quickbites

• They come fried, sautéed, steamed, grilled, creamed, in soup, cupcakes, tamales, hummus, sausage and martinis. Artichoke Festival hits Saturday-Sunday at the Fairgrounds. More, p. 30.

• David Bernahl-Rob Weakley drama takes another twist. More on the blog.

• Gusto in Seaside (899-5825) recruited the reigning World Champion Pizza maker from Italy to do pies May 28-June 2.

• Bloodies, mimosas, dog biscuits and farm-fresh brunch for Peace of Mind Dog Rescue Sunday, May 31, at Porter’s in the Forest ($45, RSVP to 622-8240).

• American Culinary Federation chef-of-the-year awards and more Saturday at Portola Hotel. More on the blog.

• Matt Bolton has a good thing going at C Restaurant. “Bubbles and Bites on the Bay: An Evening of All Things Sustainable” spotlights it nicely June 6 as part of the newly retooled Cooking for Solutions next weekend. Blog has more.

• June’s Wine Down Wednesdays at Tarpy’s Roadhouse: Joyce Vineyards, Comanche Cellars, King Estate, Seghesio. Tarpy’s sibling Rio Grill features a winery the first Thursday of every month. June 4: Bernardus Vineyard.

• Paraiso debuts special California Rodeo Salinas wine 5:30-7:30pm Thursday, June 4, at the Salinas Sports Complex with tastings and BJ’s Brewery small bites ($20, 775-3100).

• Something unprecedented and thoroughly deserved happened before the Santa Lucia Highlands Gala this month when its member winegrowers and wineries honored a first-ever “Josh Lee Volunteer of the Year.” Honoree Stefani Chaney is much more than good will/hospitality/charisma director at Scheid. She’s a tireless booster of local vintners and growers, constant contributor to local benefit events, and the one behind the gala’s impressive chef presence this year that had people like Ray Franscioni blurting, “The food is so much better!”

• Monterey Regional Waste Management District hosts a free home composting workshop at its headquarters in Marina 10-11:30am Saturday, May 30. Registration recommended (384-5313, includes $10 bin voucher).

• Willi Hastings: “Eating an artichoke is like getting to know someone really well.”

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