The chef in charge of taking Montrio back to its lofty heights has a stellar culinary background.

Before meeting up with Chef Sascha Lyon in the upstairs dining room of the soon-to-reopen Montrio in downtown Monterey, I had interviewed the legendary Chef Thomas Keller of The French Laundry. Flipping from those notes to the next page, I tell Lyon his words would follow Keller’s in the notebook.

“That’s not bad,” he says with a grin.

Lyon is unlikely to be awed by culinary royalty. After all, he’s worked alongside Daniel Boulud and Roger Vergé at three Michelin Star restaurants in New York, as well as Michel Blanchet and Michel Richard in his native Los Angeles. He’s also survived the dining scene maelstrom as an owner in both cities.

Yet Lyon and his family have always kept an eye on the Central Coast. He swells with enthusiasm when discussing the scenery, the fresh produce and the historic structure that houses Montrio. So he didn’t hesitate when the opportunity to reopen the popular kitchen came up.

“It was a dream come true when I met Ken and Mona,” Lyon says.

Ken Donkersloot and Mona Lisa Calis brought the iconic restaurant – along with Tarpy’s Roadhouse and Rio Grill – under their Coastal Roots Hospitality umbrella in 2020. While they complete a renovation of Montrio, Lyon is putting the finishing touches on the menu. It’s set to open on Feb. 17.

Weekly: I gather you’re happy to be here.

Lyon: We were just blown away. This is a perfect scenario across the board, and Montrio is an iconic restaurant. It’s a tremendous responsibility, but a greater privilege.

What is it about the Central Coast that appeals to you?

It’s just magical here. People embrace culture, cuisine and value having beautiful surroundings. The Central Coast is so rich in resources, so many inspired farmers and ranchers. I recently started meeting local artisans. For us to be able to build relationships with people of that level of integrity – that’s my main focus. My goal is the Central Coast experience. I’m excited about that – there’s so much to take advantage of. It’s a little overwhelming.

Any changes to the menu?

[Smiling] I can’t speak to menu changes. It’s still going to be an American restaurant. It’s a coastal California restaurant. I want to do tableside tartare and a few other tableside dishes, just for the fun of it. One of the coolest things is that both bars will be open, both dining rooms will be open. I love the upstairs.

Did you have a chance to check out the old menu?

I never had the opportunity to eat here. The one thing I hear is how much fun it was. That’s the place I want to be. I grew up appreciating the nuances of a particular experience, the contextual experience of eating. That to me is the essence of dining – to create memories. I want to cook where I want to eat.

That experience depends on consistency. How hard is it to achieve consistency?

I don’t think it’s hard if you respect the environment. People are leaving their homes to come here. It’s about providing an environment that feels good.

In some ways this is a new restaurant, but in other ways it’s an old favorite. So is it an opening or a reopening?

I’m treating it as an opening – internally, how we plan and manage ensuring the success of the restaurant. I’ve opened restaurants before. When you’re able to go through an opening and look back on what you should have done differently, the systems are in place.

At the same time it’s a reopening. Most people will be coming back to a favorite restaurant. That’s why I said respect is paramount. You’re going to have a preconceived notion of what you want. It’s my responsibility to deliver.

Is it still scary to open a restaurant?

Always – a nervous wreck. Sleeping starts to become more difficult the closer you get. It’s excitement and nerves.

What keeps you going?

Restaurants are nothing without people. My favorite part is the team. I’ve gained from the people I work with. They’re inspired, driven, passionate, knowledge-driven individuals. You have that and you have a lot of happy people in the restaurant. That’s the best part. You look out and see people having a good time.