Two evolutionary jumps in Seaside and New Monterey restaurants.

For those wondering how the human brain was able to make an evolutionary leap, the answer is simple: cooking.

I learned as much last Saturday, which happened to be fitting since Seaside cooking took an evolutionary leap the very same day.

It wasn’t until humans deployed fire to make it easier to eat more calories more easily that our brains had enough fuel to leave comparable physiologies behind, as least according to Brazilian neuroscientist Suzana Herculano-Houzel. And it wasn’t until a recent soft opening that Gusto used a wood-fired oven, Northern Italian roots, sincere sourcing that Seaside got some of the best pizza and pasta the area – and certainly the city – have seen, at least according to my tastebuds.

At Saturday night’s soft opening, co-owner/GM/recipe-writer Denis Boaro was all smiles – and all about “taking it easy” so his team might get its legs beneath them.

Then he promptly served some of the handcrafted pizza and pasta that will be their signature, at price points that make a lot more sense for Seaside than what previous occupant Lucky’s was on about. (Pizzas start at $10, pastas $12, salads $6.)

Which now has me trying real hard to take it easy. In other words, the pizza and pastas are excellent.

We asked Boaro to lay his favorite dishes on us to go with the light Italian Chianti. His choices numbered three:

1) A piatto del salumeriere, or charcuterie board ($16), with a fatty speck, lean salami and complex prosciutto, plus a tangy blue cheese, buttery brie and a harder cheese I forgot to ask about (but ate right up), all accompanied by chestnut honey, Chianti jelly and imported olives.

2) A classic Tirolese ($16) pizza with Sam Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, regal speck (aka Italian smoked ham), a touch of Gorgonzola and rich wild mushrooms.

3) A classic spaghetti and meatballs ($12) with al dente noodles Boaro twirled into the earthy tomato sauce, braised sweet onions and huge spheres of hand-molded meat.

Boaro’s background co-owning-and-operating the hyper fresh Basil Seasonal Dining in Carmel come in, particularly his sourcing. So does his friend, collaborator and Basil co-founder Michele Cremonese, and his gift for handmade pasta. And the fact they’re importing organic Mulino Sobrino flour for the Northern thin-crust style pizzas, and his hotel-restaurant-running parents to help.

Eleven pizzas take over the oven, center column of the menu and the heart of the place, a Bresaola ($14), a mortadella with arugula and pistachios ($13) and a four-cheese ($12). All enjoy house-made mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes.

The pastas are eye-popping in the to-go case and on the plate, in 12 creative preparations. Take the Bigoli (named for Cremonese’s pasta shop), with a duck ragout and “glazed” cipollini onions ($16). The diverse ravioli rock everything from shredded short rib in a porcini-marscapone sauce ($18) to artichoke and fontina with speck ($16). The lavish lasagna ($14) presents evidence of passion and execution.

The inside looks sharp, with new flooring, bold red colors, shiny draft beer taps and arranged Italian and California wines. The wood-fired oven still is the anchor of the kitchen, but much else has changed. Given the amount of money invested in Lucky’s aggressive buildout, another major makeover so soon might seem counterintuitive, but it’s key to Gusto establishing its own brand. With these pizzas and pastas, I don’t think they need to worry too much about that.

But nevertheless, it’s early. So take it easy, view photos on the blog, and know Gusto isn’t the only leap taking place.

~ ~ ~

Lighthouse Smokehouse (375-6958) didn’t take long to start smokin’ on New Monterey’s main street since opening Feb. 13. It was safe to expect as much given their smoky, rich, but under-the-radar history as Bayview Deli. Now that they’ve opened in the former Afghan restaurant (Amir’s Bar & Grill), the real leap is the appearance of Mike Beck and the Bohemian Saints with Tom Ayres 9pm Friday-Saturday, Feb. 27-28 ($10).

Cowboy bluesman Beck, arguably the most popular local live act to perform here regularly, comes backed by the prodigious picking abilities of longtime guitarist Ayres of Persephone’s Bees.

“There’s no rules when you write songs,” Beck says. “For me, songs are about a feeling and that feeling is different within each person that hears it. That’s the beauty of it.”

The rules at The Smokehouse: maximize the flavor of the house-smoked meats in things like the club ($10.50). What Ayres is to guitar, the club is to smoked-meat sandwiches.

Yes, it’s that good. The key to the club is the three house-smoked proteins – ham, turkey and bacon – layered with mayo, ample avocado and toasted sourdough.

The other sandwiches were also excellent, particularly with a glass of wine or draft beer from the full bar, like the saucy and satisfying Reuben ($9.50) and maple-cured BLT ($9.50). The smoked salmon plate ($14.75) with a choice of side (including expertly roasted seasonal vegetables) proves another winner.

When the Saints come marching in, it will be time for a combination barbecue plate ($19.75) thundering out three meats (like a third-rack of ribs, tri tip, pulled pork, half Rocky’s chicken or salmon) with one side and thick bread.

QUICKBITES

• Founder of Carmel Lavender and bee enthusiast John Russo presents “A Bee’s Life and Society” and demystifies common misconceptions about these insects 11:30am-1:45pm March 4 at Carmel Valley Ranch Golf Club House. Guests also enjoy a honey tasting. $35, contact Carmel Valley Women’s Club (659-0934) to register.

• Stephanie Yee, Hannah Weinronk and Sunny Kim of the CSUMB’s Farm Club won the unite4:inspiration $75,000 prize to bring more fresh and sustainably-farmed food to the school through the Real Food Challenge Program.

• The Aquarium’s Seafood Watch just drew a $10 million grant from a Google exec. Glorious. More on the blog.

• Bernardus Lodge & Spa has a new vice president and general manager: Sean Damery, previously of Devil’s Thumb Ranch in Colorado and Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, and is closing in on reopening its landmark restaurant Marinus after an ambitious remodel.

• Ticino Coffee Shop & Deli opened this week in 201 Main of Oldtown Salinas. More on the blog.

• The turbo burrito with soy butter shrimp and tilapia from El Zarape in Seaside is as good as it sounds.

• So this GourmetFest thing contends for swankiest shindig to ever hit terrestrial tastebuds. Coming March 5-8.

• Tassjara Zen Center lines up deep slate of classes on health, spirituality, cooking for its upcoming guest season to go with the wholesome and unrivaled vegetarian fare. More on the blog.

• Salinas Rotary unleashes Pigs, Pinot & More at Salinas Armory ($85, 758-0725) at Salinas PAL Armory, Salinas come Saturday, Feb. 28,

• Margarita Mania splashes down 6-10pm Saturday, Feb. 28 at the Fairgrounds, offers a variety of margaritas and tequilas to sample, crunchy nacho pairings and margarita recipes. It’s for a good cause too. Tickets are $35 in advance (available through Monterey County Fair Heritage Foundation) and $45 day of.

• Haruki Murakami: “If you remember me, then I don’t care if everyone else forgets.”