Scouring the Monterey Peninsula for the best vegetarian burgers.

I am an outlaw in a family of meat-eaters. When I told my mother nine years ago about my dietary change, her expression turned blank, mentally sifting through vegetarian options she could make at home. Living in Mexico at the time, where meat-free recipes are rare, it turned out to be a challenge. However, vegetarian burgers saved us in this transition period, along with veggie fajitas and enchiladas.

We mastered the art of the veggie burger at home. We made vinegar-drizzled portobello mushroom burgers with guacamole; patties of black beans, lentils, chopped garlic and breadcrumbs; and soy patties with crushed veggies like sweet water chestnuts, tender green beans, shaved carrots and grilled mushrooms. You name it, we made it – from scratch.

When it came to eating out, the main dish was usually a disappointment. Restaurants seem to tack veggie burgers onto their menus as an afterthought. Some served frozen patties weakly disguised by fresh garnish. Far too many offered a lifeless portobello mushroom slab. Even when patties are made from scratch, the contents usually disintegrated shortly after picking up the burger from the plate. Vegetarians deserve better.

Locally, I was excited to take on a quest to find the best vegetarian burger on the Monterey Peninsula. A quick Yelp search yields scads of options, but when I started making calls asking if they were made in-house, the list was cut almost in half. Still, it makes me proud to see veggie burgers featured in numerous restaurants. Below is a list of the five best vegetarian burgers I tried, ranked from best to alright, and all prepared at locally owned joints (sorry, Burger King):

1. I wasn’t expecting much coming in to Hula’s Island Grill and Tiki Room (655-4852) but the $11 Big Sur Veggie Burger is easily the best veggie burger I’ve tasted, period. The ciabatta bread held the patty firmly enough to not come apart with every bite – a common issue with veggie patties. It was topped with a thin slice of portobello mushroom, which lent an earthy flavor. The burger itself is simple, with few toppings and a spread of sweet housemade sauce. This helps the patty and mushroom flavors take charge.

2. Alvarado Street Brewery (655-2337) in downtown Monterey has gifted vegetarians with the Vegan “Double Double” Burger and a bit of the buzz over In-N-Out burgers we vegetarians struggle to relate to (though the “grilled cheese” at In-N-Out is a nice play). A bite through the toasty, pillowy buns and the two house-made patties, complemented by an imitation In-N-Out “secret” sauce, gives beef burgers a run for their money. (Even my friend Dustin, an avid carnivore, was a fan.) While the portion is generous and worth the $14, it can still feel like a stretch to the wallet. And the consistency of the patty could use improvement; it crumbles easily.

3. Rosine’s Restaurant (375-1400) next-door to Alvarado Street Brewery offers a classic version with The “Veggie” Burger ($11.08). It contains a classic ingredient that many chefs fail to incorporate into their patties: water chestnuts, which add a sweet aftertaste to every bite. The burger also makes good use of black beans and whole grains to make the consistency firmer, and a sprinkling of mushrooms and small slices of grilled red pepper deliver more layers of sweet flavor.

4. Julia’s Vegetarian Restaurant (656-9533) serves a Cheddar & Onion Burger ($11.75) that has hints of smoke and caramel, with caramelized red onions and perfectly oozy melted cheddar cheese. The cucumber adds freshness to a patty on the brink of falling apart, but successfully pulls itself together with rice, oats, flax, beans and carrots.

5. Googie Grill (392-1520) in Seaside serves a mean Black Bean Chipotle Burger that tastes just the way it sounds: spicy, tender and peppery. For $12.96, the restaurant offers a black bean burger that is actually firm enough to not completely fall apart. The bread’s the best part: toasted and big enough to hold a flattened patty.

Email your own nominations for great vegetarian burgers to edible@mcweekly.com.

Mama Ceballos’ Veggie Burger

(makes six burgers) For a veggie burger that you can easily make at home in less than an hour, here’s a variation of one of my mother’s classic recipes.

• 1 carrot, peeled
• 1/2 medium yellow or white onion
• 3 garlic cloves
• 2 cups cooked brown lentils
• 1/2 cup cooked chickpeas
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• Handful fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon Tapatio sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Grate the carrot and set aside.

2. Use a food processor to chop the halved onion and peeled garlic cloves.

3. Add remaining ingredients to the food processor with the onion and garlic mixture. Pulse until the consistency is similar to a chunky hummus, then stir in the grated carrot.

4. Divide the lentil mixture into six portions, shaping them into patties about 1 inch thick. Dust with flour on both sides.

5. Heat a thin layer of cooking oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, cook the patties until crispy, about 5 minutes on each side.

6. Serve on ciabatta bread and garnish with lettuce, tomato and guacamole.