Valley Grille

Thinking of food in Carmel and Carmel Valley, I think of classy restaurants with fancy entrees and fancier prices, and not so much downhome mom-and-pop joints with vinyl tablecloths and wooden walls. But that’s exactly what you get at new burger joint Valley Grille at the Mid-Valley Shopping Center.

Nestled along miles of vineyards and tasting rooms, this laid-back location delivers a great spot to just relax, take a breather and enjoy some tasty, affordable grub.

Mykel Donaghy runs the place with his wife and daughters and makes friendly conversation from table to table, creating a vibe in which guests feel at home.

After a long Wednesday at work, my companion and I both required a little vino and figured a burger wouldn’t hurt either. Despite its Carmel Valley location, this isn’t the best destination for wine as no list exists and all pours come from the same Napa vineyard: Coastal Vines. Still, my slightly creamy and oaky chardonnay got the job done and my friend felt the same about her warm and cozy Cab.

Valley Grille’s menu offers salads like the jumbo prawn ($19.95) and sandwiches like the homemade sloppy Joe on brioche ($10.95), but nothing quite steals the show like their main feature: build-your-own burgers ($10.95-$12.95). Diners begin with a choice from an ample selection of meats ranging from beef, lamb, venison and bison to chicken, salmon, turkey and vegetarian. Traditional toppings like lettuce, tomato, pickles and even grilled onions come free, and $1 extras include egg, jalapeños, mushrooms and ortega chili peppers.

Some more unique takes on the all-American dish sparked my curiosity. Venison? Lamb? Maybe something lighter?

I decided to go with the salmon, not knowing if it would come as a patty or fillet. To my delight, a nice, thick fillet came pleasingly simple and the fish tasted great. It benefited from a touch sweetness in the caramelized onions, which were cooked by someone who knows what they’re doing. I added pineapple ($0.50) and teriyaki sauce ($1) which jazzed things up and made a nice combination, if I say so myself.

The highlight of my plate, however, had nothing to do with the burger and everything to do with the coleslaw. I’ll be the first to admit I’m a snob about such an unpretentious food, but I love it so much when it’s good – and this was good. A balanced amount of dressing gave way to crunchy cabbage and carrots with just enough tenderness. Clearly fresh, the flavors were jumping.

My friend ate a house salad as her side, and in her case I think the burger was the highlight of her plate (as intended). Yummy bison set the stage for complementary topping flavors to follow, and I longed for more of the juicy and delicious red meat after trying a bite.

The place was pretty packed that night, so it felt like a different scene one Monday for lunch. A few regulars sat by the bar, and the outdoor tables were peaceful and quiet with a feeling in the air that the week was only beginning and the town hadn’t quite woken up yet.

One of my favorite eating partners joined me, and having the same tastes made it easy to split a few things.

We started with the soup of the day ($4.25/cup; $6.25/bowl): a very creamy broccoli and cheddar with a beautiful fresh cheesiness in both taste and aroma, and bites of flavorful broccoli throughout. An A-plus.

For the meal we dabbled through the gyro salad with tzatziki ($14.95), the eggplant parm sandwich with caramelized onions and a side of sweet potato fries ($11.95), and an extra side of coleslaw just for good measure ($5.95).

The salad brought crunch and pizzazz with a zesty feta dressing on lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and red onions. Several hearty slabs of gyro meat – lamb and beef pressed together – topped with a bright and tasty tzatziki sauce ensured a perfectly filling meal on its own. It wasn’t on its own however, and went swimmingly well with the extremely tasty eggplant. A big, satisfying, crusty French roll made a home for a pile of roasted eggplant and impressively savory marinara, all intensely flavored and delicious. Red peppers added a zing and caramelized onions brought it all together, creating a truly delectable sandwich. There was the usual disagreement on fries (I like them soft, he likes them crispy), but in the end even I could concede that, despite being extremely fried, the sweet potato taste still shined happily through.

The one downfall was the coleslaw. It wasn’t terrible, but certainly a fall from the pedestal I had previously put it on. This time carrots were missing. Not the hugest deal on its own, but for some reason the dressing’s balance was lost. It was very wet, too wet, and mustard popped out a little too strongly.

Coleslaw mishap aside, each visit delivered such lively freshness that I wouldn’t hesitate to go again. A pleasant burger joint in the heart of the valley feels like what the doctor (or food writer) ordered.

THE VALLEY GRILLE 315 Mid Valley Center, Carmel. •11am-8pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun •(831) 624-3056, thevalleygrille.com