Tree House Cafe

I once had a treehouse that transported my friends and me to a far-off country with a blink of an eye, where my favorite foods magically appeared out of thin air. (Yes, I’ve been obsessed with food for a long time.)

The husband-and-wife team of Fadi and Pam Nimri, along with Chef Bob Zernicke, have conjured a similar portal with Tree House Cafe in Carmel. One second you can be on its leafy second-story deck, and the next you’re transported to Thailand (Pam’s homeland), feasting on flavorful homestyle cooking. The next you’re visiting the Greek Isles, grubbing on some of your favorite Mediterranean eats, a Fadi specialty. You can also travel Italy and Mexico, or stay domestic.

In recent years the Nimris have been busy starting and selling restaurants like Athena Cafe and the cool-treat spot Ice Box in Mid Valley. Fadi, like much of his family, started early in the restaurant industry, with a stint at Ocean Sushi Deli in Pacific Grove while still in high school, then went on to International Cuisine with his brothers. Another brother helps run Dametra Cafe in Carmel and a cousin just started the new Yafa. Now he and Pam are settling in the space once occupied by La Dolce Vita.

We grabbed a table on the sunny second-story deck under a big oak tree and set sail for Thailand. Pam not only cooked everything, but served us too. Chicken lettuce cups ($9) were a hands-on experience in which we peeled off pieces of iceberg lettuce and scooped up generous amounts of sweet and spicy ground chicken cooked in lime juice, with a hint of cilantro, mint and red onion. The warm Thai taco treat was a hit at our table.

Next up: soups. We passed around the coconut prawn ($4/lunch; $7/dinner), with the giant prawn popping out of a small bowl. Chicken lemon ($3/$6) delivered a porridge consistency the first time around; on my second visit, it was brothy, with sparse bits of rice and vegetables and a nice lemon essence waking up my tastebuds. Good acidity from that soup, especially if you are gearing up for their chicken or shrimp pad Thai ($15).

Our rice noodles were drenched in an over-the-top dark and sweet tamarind sauce, with ample slices of chicken breast cooked with egg and bean sprouts. Thinly sliced green onions decorated the noodles, served with a side of crushed peanuts for a beautiful presentation. We cleaned this dish up in no time – it was a bit too sweet for my palate, but squeezes of fresh lime helped balance it. A yellow-hued Thai curry ($15) was also sweet, but contained generous portions of chicken and chunks of red potatoes, cooked with carrots, bell peppers, onions and coconut milk.

On my next visit we took a different trip, starting with vegetarian dolmas ($7). Tree House serves theirs warm, which was a welcoming touch. Their tzatziki sauce has feta cheese in it, and so do the stuffed grape leaves, giving them a slightly softer filling and some added tang.

Next came a Greek salad ($10). I usually expect a plate of chunky tomatoes, cucumber and olives mixed with salad greens in an oily dressing. That was far from what I found at the Tree House – instead, it was delicious grilled chicken (add $5) on mixed greens with a light vinaigrette and a few slices of red onion. This paired well with the lentil soup ($3 or $6), simply the best that I’ve ever tasted, with bite-sized pieces of red potato giving it a heartier mouthfeel. I craved another serving.

I tried to explore the menu, but found myself ordering Thai again, partly because the special of the day was a panang-style curry ($15) with a side of brown rice. Peanuts gave it just the right texture and depth. Again the chicken is cooked just right, but I wish they would tone the sweetness down.

The rest of the menu is wildly scattered: quesadillas ($9) and tacos ($14); six pizzas ($12-$16); sandwiches like the smoked salmon ($13) served with tomato, arugula, red onion and goat cheese or the more familiar tuna melt ($11); and an Angus beef burger ($13) with grilled pineapple and onions, Jack and teriyaki sauce. Other entrees include Russian beef stroganoff ($16), lasagna ($14) and a seafood pasta ($21) with salmon, mussels and prawns simmered in a white wine, garlic, tomato and basil sauce. The dinner menu does the burgers and sandwiches, and adds more seafood options like steamed mussels ($12), seafood paella ($32) and cioppino ($32).

Like the food, the wine list is out there, featuring Cabs like a 2005 Opus One ($375), 2006 Insignia ($255) and a 2009 Caymus ($175) all the way down to by the glass from Salmon Creek ($9/$35). The back private room contains a wine surprise: On some evenings Richard Oh pours both his Otter Cove and Oh labels.

This new restaurant is not only family friendly, but dogs are welcome on the patio too, which helps around this town. If you enjoy plentiful portions, full-flavored food and an endless range of menu items and wine, then climb up a short set of stairs, relax and relish a visit to the charming cafe. It’s like you have the whole world in your hands.

TREE HOUSE CAFE San Carlos Street between Seventh and Eighth, Carmel. • 11am-3pm, 5-9pm daily. •626-1111.