Taste of India lives up to its name, and gives new flavor to Pacific Grove’s dining scene.

America’s last hometown has come a long way. In the last few years, Pacific Grove has seen some hot new eateries liven its streets, plus its first pub, first brewing company – sorta – and now its first Indian restaurant.

Taste of India adds some spice to Butterflytown. In a big, sunny dining room as pretty and clean-cut as P.G. gets, one’s palate is transported to fragrant markets in faraway lands.

My favorite way to eat Indian is multiple passes through the buffet line (truthfully, it’s my favorite way to eat most things). Some veggies, some chicken, some lamb; a cooling salad in between bites; fresh naan to soak up the sauce. At Taste of India, it’s all there. More importantly, it’s all good.

Many buffets begin with some variation of fried vegetable, fish or meat pakora. On a busy Saturday brunch, crispy eggplant pakora started the show, boasting Chefs Uttam (he goes by the singular) and Kamaljeet Singh’s ability to keep the inside juicy and outside crunchy.

With aromatic pulao as a base, I made my way along the table. Aloo gajar with hot, firm carrots that the teeth easily sink into? Mushrooms bursting from a bright coconut curry? The British staple chicken tikka masala with a sauce so creamy and indulgent one could drink it? Yes, please.

Not everywhere will offer up the good stuff for all-you-can-eat, but here I found lamb vindaloo. Tender meat came in a rich tomato curry, but chunks of potato stole the lamb’s thunder – their starchy interior subtly absorbing the stew’s heady spices. A fork slid through them effortlessly, each bite hearty yet soft as a pillow.

Though nothing beats the buffet, I found myself scanning the restaurant’s menu. Saag paneer arrived with an aroma that matched its taste: earthy, grassy and green. Soft homemade cheese balanced out the spinach base, while rice did its job tying everything together. Did I want to lick it off the plate? Yes. Please?

Fine. I maintained social etiquette and tried the next dish, lamb butter masala. The luxurious curry complemented robust meat. Naan that melted in the mouth was an excellent way to catch any extra sauce.

Though plain naan served with the buffet is equally appetizing, Taste of India offers many Indian breads. Some come stuffed with potatoes, some with onions, some with mint. An intriguing option – maharaja naan, with cherries, nuts and finely flaked coconut reveals just howversatile this bread is. It sounds like dessert, but the sweetness paired surprisingly well with the curries and their spices.

There’s no shortage of actual desserts, like kheer with pistachios, mango ice cream or kulfi, a more traditional Indian ice cream. Gulab jamun – deep fried cottage cheese balls laced in syrup and rosewater – tasted like moist, sugary cake. (If you’d rather drink your treat, you’re covered here with regional beloveds from Bernardus to Daou and Justin.)

From the spices to the rosewater, each thoughtful ingredient made each dish a delicious whole – not too different from the way Taste of India adds to the growing pot of P.G.

TASTE OF INDIA 1180 Forest Ave. # A, Pacific Grove. 11am-2:30pm, 5-9:30pm Thu-Tue. 641-7493, tasteofindiapg.com