El Pollo Rey

The words from the full-blooded Mexican across the table were inspired by the charro beans: “This place is authentic as f*ck!”

I’ve learned from my food adventures with several Mexican-American friends that it can be hard to find the right hole in the wall with the appropriate mix of talent and tradition to take them back to abuela’s kitchen. Those looking for such delectable nostalgia can look no further than new Seaside restaurant El Pollo Rey Express, and the loving care of the Berrelleza family, Alejandra and Armando.

Armando learned a lot growing up in their family’s chicken restaurant in Sinaloa, and together they’ve designed an efficient and aesthetically-pleasing (albeit basic) kitchen and counter from which to deliver legit Sinaloa grub. Bright orange walls and minimalistic decor add to the bona fide vibe, with a small dining area and a fridge stocked with drinks and Mexican desserts.

The specialty at El Pollo Rey is, yes, el pollo. Whole ($15.99) or half chickens ($7.99) come charred from the open kitchen’s mesquite charcoal grill, and can be accompanied by options like cactus salad ($2.25), beans ($1.99) and rice ($1.99). All chicken comes with a couple of salsas (one fresh, one roasted), pickled onions and corn and flour tortillas.

Everything is delicious and doesn’t actually need much more. The charred chicken comes with big quarters of charred onion and a jalapeño pepper. After cutting some chicken off the bone (and maybe utilizing my hands), I rolled the meat up in a tortilla with some onion (the pepper was a little spicy for me), and topped it off with crunchy, pickled red onions and mildly spicy salsa. The tortillas would have been better homemade, but the inner workings of the rest of the dish were addictively yummy. The chicken, happily, was the best part: savory and tender inside, charred with smoky, natural barbecue flavor outside. Both salsa options brought zesty zing from the tomatoes, onions and peppers cooked in the traditional recipe. The onions added a touch of dazzle that brought it all together.

For $4.50, a tub of freshly made guac doesn’t get better. It adds a healthy touch and a luxurious texture simultaneously, and they make theirs on the spot – as I was ordering, Alejandra picked up an avo from a bowl on the counter and said she couldn’t guarantee the guacamole would be at its best because of a late delivery and some slight overripe-ness. I told her I’m sure it would be OK, and it was. Even though she had correctly warned me that the green fruits weren’t at their absolute finest, the chopped tomatoes, onion and cilantro enhanced a dip that turned out far better than palatable.

We tried the charro beans on the side ($2.25), and received a small bowl of pinto beans prepared in a classic Mexican style, which resembles a thick soup. Ingredients can vary, but El Pollo’s included jalapeños, bacon and diced hot dog.

I also enjoyed beans one early dinner in a manner I’m much more accustomed to: refried, comfortingly soft and alongside a complementary amigo, Spanish rice. These sides can be included with a full or half chicken for a couple bucks extra, and it’s well worth it. The beans were hard to put down. The rice came almost red with the influence of tomatoes, a good sign of authenticity and tastiness. Mixed with the beans and thrown into the various roll-ups I was experimenting with, the rice added chewy sustenance that helps make the meal complete.

On a different tortilla I threw in cactus salad, which was a little cold for my liking by itself but melded in nicely with balancing flavors like chicken, beans and rice. Alone the cactus salad was interesting – reminiscent of green beans with subtle and friendly additions of fresh tomato, onion and pepperoncinis.

Life wouldn’t be the same without dessert, and there are several options at El Pollo. They have mango-and-chili-flavored lollipops shaped like chickens, and a local baker who supplies cookies. The menu offers arroz con leche (rice pudding, $2.65) and traditional flan ($2.99). I’m not the biggest fan of flan (the texture is a little wobbly for me), so I went with rice pudding. Creamy, milky and chock full of cinnamon, it was extremely difficult to not polish off the whole container. Unlike rice puddings I’ve often had at Indian restaurants, it was thick instead of liquidy, which I really enjoyed. You could really feel the rice in the texture and chew the sweetness.

Although the menu seems small, in this case it is a strength (unless you’re vegetarian, which is about the only case you shouldn’t go). The Berrellezas are here to show what they’re good at, and they’re very good at it indeed.

The meals were so tasty, it was almost surprising for a place you might accidentally drive right by, given its off the beaten path location. Authentic eaters would be wise not to.

EL POLLO REY EXPRESS 1188 Broadway Ave., Seaside. •10:30am-8pm daily. • 717-4744.