Casanova

Food approaches an art form nightly at the updated Casanova.

But late last month, things went a step further to celebrate Vincent Van Gogh’s birthday, giving Chef David Baron a blank canvas to offer palate-pleasing creations from his pallet of local ingredients, many just harvested from the organic school gardens at Carmel’s MEarth Habitat.

Billed as the Menu de Artistes, our 11 culinary bits of special-dinner inspiration were paired with curated wines by beverage director Jeff Birkemeier, the force behind a wine list that was just named a semifinalist in the James Beard Awards.

Birkemeier introduced each course by giving a brief presentation about the qualities and origin of each beverage and why they mated well with the flavors of the food. Casanova has over 2,000 wines on its list and around 16,000 bottles in its cellar, ranging from $25 to $16,000 a pop. Currently Van Gogh’s super splurge dinner is offered nightly with a choice of five ($150) or nine courses ($195) for up to a party of eight. Fortunately for the less flush among us, owner Walter Georis made it clear that he and his staff are always open to preparing special dinners for a minimum of two people to accommodate any budget, food preferences or restrictions. In fact, according to Baron, all gluten-free fare was served on the evening of Van Gogh’s homage because one of the parties requested it. Georis even joked that, whatever the food preference, even if your favorite food is bubble gum, his staff would help you plan a meal for any occasion.

A not-too-sweet Italian vermouth, Antica Formula, served as an apertif before Baron got things rolling with a sushi grade salmon belly, charred hearts of palm, avocado puree and pieces of tender avocado in a passionfruit sauce.

In the opening rounds an Aspall English draft cider paired with a green apple sorbet with grated cucumber, lime, fennel tops and bottoms plus fennel meringue. Another novel choice was the Brouerji Bavik – Petrus Grand Reserve oak-aged pale ale from Belgium, paired with poached skate wing, a white fish whose delicate flavor was enhanced with carrots cooked in carrot juice and coconut milk, smoked coconut, mint and peas.

Apparently Baron plies his craft with the same fervor as the artist he was honoring. He says his brain never stops thinking of new ideas and is glad that Casanova has given him the freedom to try them out over the past year or so.

Housemade tofu, in a Monterey Bay seawater mushroom dashi topped with local New Zealand spinach, came next. Then came Castroville artichoke puree and shaved artichoke a la plancha with smoked bread, preserved Meyer lemon and fresh parsley. Then it was a final birthday gift, roasted potato broth with fried pig ear and trout roe.

EVEN IF YOUR FAVORITE FOOD IS BUBBLE GUM, HIS STAFF WOULD HELP.

One that earned many oohs and ahs for its looks and taste was the steamed asparagus contrasted by the orange kumquat slices. To add even more color and flavor, the dish was dotted with a roasted green garlic and spring onion puree as well as a puree of calendula and nasturtium flower petals. A beauty, paired with the 2014 La Marea Albariño from Kristy Vineyard in Monterey County.

Another favorite was the seared New York steak with fava beans, radish and black garlic. It was paired with the Daumass Gassac Guilhem red blend from Languedoc, France, providing enough heft to stand up to the stoutness of the steak, fava beans and the spice from the radish and fermented garlic.

Each dish exhibited a complexity that made pairing a formidable challenge. Birkemeier, the beverage director, met each with grace.

Prominently displayed in the room where the tribute was held was the table where the great artist took his meals during the final 70 days of his life at the Auberge Ravoux Restaurant in Auvers-sur-Oise, 22 miles northwest of Paris.

Casanova’s owner Walter Georis, who also owns Corkscrew Bistro and Georis Winery and just took full ownership of Casanova from his brother Gaston (who got La Bicyclette, the brothers’ other restaurant), is an accomplished painter himself. He opened the evening with a colorful story of how the table got there: He was on vacation in France with his family when he befriended the owner of the restaurant and historic site over a lunch that lasted six hours. Not long after the Georis family came home from their three-month stay in France, the table arrived as a gift and a symbol of their friendship. Guests at the Casanova are invited to view and even have a special meal at it upon request.

In his lifetime Van Gogh sold only one painting. He never got to see the joy his art has brought to millions since his death. One gets the sense that, given Georis’ appreciation and passion for promoting the finer things in life like art, music and food, things may have turned out differently for Vincent if he and Walter could have hung out together at Casanova.

CASANOVA Fifth between Mission and San Carlos •11:30am-3pm daily; 5-10pm Mon-Thu; until 10:30pm Fri-Sat • (831) 625-0501,www.casanovarestaurant.com