Out of Sight

Chef Wayne Brooks is justifiably proud of his burger and the menu at Shearwater Tavern, which is tucked behind a Carmel gas station.

Fabrice Ronda’s little waffle shop is so well concealed it can cause some unusual situations. One day a neighbor of his found a stranger in the living room of her home, peering around. He was looking to order breakfast.

“We’re the underground waffle provider,” Ronda says with a laugh.

L’Aubette Belgian Bakery is – for now – hidden in plain sight. It sits at the corner of Wave Street and Drake Avenue in Monterey, almost touching the Rec Trail. Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa fills much of the space across the street. Yet there is no indication the place exists, other than a temporary sign that appears occasionally, propped up along the trail. People generally find out about L’Aubette through social media. But they don’t always learn of the small window – Sundays 10am to noon – to buy waffles, which leads to the occasional accidental break-in.

Deborah Wenzler of Baum & Blume in Carmel Valley believes being out of sight can be an advantage. “It’s like a discovery,” she explains. “We’re the kind of place people like to find.”

There are a number of kitchens in Monterey County that are secluded in well traveled places. And yet they manage to develop a following. Duffy’s Tavern sits at the end of a residential Monterey dead-end street and is a staple for burgers and brews for those who know its whereabouts. When Michelle’s Soul Food Kitchen pops up in Seaside’s Retired Men’s Social Club, people stream in for catfish and hush puppies. Many first notice C.U. Sushi Rolls & Bowls in Salinas (inside a county government building) when they are called for jury duty.

“We have done some advertising and social media, but a lot of it is word of mouth,” says Chef Wayne Brooks of Shearwater Tavern, located in the Carmel Mission Inn in Carmel.

Shearwater Tavern replaced Fuse Lounge after an extensive renovation and offers a moderately-priced but chef-driven menu. It can be difficult to spot from the road, as it is screened by a gas station. Discovery rewards diners with tender salmon dressed with a cherry gastrique that makes it pop or a burger that can’t be contained. It’s a blend of sirloin, chuck and Wagyu and it drips husky, bittersweet savor.

“You want to have a juicy burger,” Brooks says. “At least I do.”

The idea of a hidden gem includes places in plain sight that don’t readily come to mind, perhaps because they are associated with a hotel or golf course. Sea Root in the Monterey Hyatt Regency is an example. It has a mixologist and a seasonal menu dubbed pan-Mediterranean with California ingredients. Marv’s Barbecue sets up two days a week in Urban Kitchen at the Red Lion Hotel in Monterey, a venue that can be a challenge to access if you’ve never been. Baum & Blume has been an eclectic hide-and-seek space for 36 years. Around the corner from Carmel Valley Village crowds they offer lunch Thursday-Saturday, with a menu that changes frequently, as well as catering, takeout and unique retail goods.

“We’re not the kind of people who are ever on the main road,” Wenzler points out. “We like to take time with people. They’re like family.” It’s indeed a family operation, which began as a Monterey garden shop. In the early 1970s it became a lunch stop. Now, Wenzler runs the space with her sister Diane and brother Deric.

For Ronda and his waffle iron, the anonymity is temporary. He decided to sell Liege-style waffles on a home kitchen permit while the build-out on the full bakery – which will double as a coffee shop and tasting room – is completed. Further out, Ronda plans to add a brewery for Belgian-style ales.

So far, the Liege waffles are a hit. Unlike Belgian’s other style, the Brussels waffle, these have lumps of pearl sugar mixed into a dough. As the sugar yields to heat, it helps create airy pockets. The waffles at L’Aubette carry a notion of malt and crackles of sugar held aloft by a faint bitter trace honed from the iron; there’s a compelling sweet – almost honeyed – patina that makes the little treats stand apart.

“People think it’s the sugar inside, but it caramelizes from the previous waffle,” Ronda explains. “I grew up with these waffles. It was important to get everything right.”

With these and other similar places, a little culinary hide and seek brings great rewards.

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