Fresh from a $750,000 renovation, the Pacific's Edge lays claim to first-class standing.

Photo by Randy Tunnell: First In Its Class: Ocean views from every table.

The Highlands Inn is a grande dame with a checkered past. For some time, it seemed she''d lost her ambition. Two years ago, residents were distraught when Hyatt Hotels proposed a purchase of the precious coastal property where she made her home. But the money required to restore the Inn put the project squarely in the domain of big business. The sale went through, Hyatt polished this jewel of an inn nicely, and February saw the reopening of a made-over Pacific''s Edge Restaurant.

I had the good fortune to dine at Pacific''s Edge-where chef de cuisine Rick Edge has engineered a menu of contemporary American cuisine since 2001-during last month''s Masters of Food and Wine, at a press dinner, and on one quiet evening with my man.

Floors, ceiling, everything is new, but the space is changed most by the removal of the half-wall that divided the two-level room. The coastal view of Point Lobos is now brought into the entire restaurant, adding value to every table.

If the rumor is true, and I cannot find refutable evidence, Pacific''s Edge has the second largest wine list among California restaurants, with 33,000 bottles and 1,700 labels. (Valentino in Los Angeles and the Sardine Factory have more bottles but less labels.) A climate-controlled, glass white wine room puts 1,500 bottles on view and prevents the long wait while staff used to journey to the cellar. A new "wine room" where red wine is stored may be reserved for parties up to 40 at no additional charge.

The bar boasts some nice upgrades. It is twice its former size, also offers exceptional views, and you can order from the full menu or a bar menu. It has a rock fireplace and the same earthy tones that grace the restaurant. The menu lists 40 single malt Scotch whiskeys and blends, 30 vodkas, and 30 bourbons.

Wine director Bernabe de Luna presents an admirable wines-by-the-glass list. Prices range from $7 to $27 and you can''t go wrong, even at the low end. Two recommendations are the Abadia Retuerta Rivola, a Spanish red ($8.50) and a Rhone Valley Chateau des Tours Vacqueyras ($10). And where else can one order Chateau d''Yquem by the glass? It''s only $50.

Pacific''s Edge is going for it. Management wants the top grade from both rating systems: Mobile Travel Guide''s five stars and AAA''s five diamonds. We, the residents of Monterey County, are the benefactors of their ambitions. The details! Italian Frette linens, French Bernardaud china, Spiegelau glassware and Guy Degrenne flatware glorify each table.

Culinary education is also part of the new order. Cheese seminars and dinners focusing on local wine and ingredients are planned. Service is excellent and without pretension, with courses now served clock style (one waiter per diner).

Dining begins with an amuse bouche-a gift from the chef. On one evening, slow-cooked salmon over broccoli puree with trout roe and grapefruit was a luscious tease of what was to come. A six-course tasting menu is offered for $85 per person ($135 with wine pairings). All dishes on the regular menu are served in portions the management calls tastings, though some dishes have more heft than others. Dinner involves three, four or five selections, at $48, $56, and $64 respectively.

The golden beet and blood orange salad is a delicious start. It looks like dessert with alternating layers of Laura Chenel''s chevre (I''ll second the chef''s choice-I''ve never found better soft goat cheese).

Decisions are difficult. I passed on two favorites-Hudson Valley foie gras and sashimi-style tuna and hamachi (yellowtail)-in favor of trying spice grilled quail breast with caramelized Bosc pears. This dish is ambrosial, with perfectly delicate spices. The Dungeness crab and local abalone with Jerusalem artichokes sounded interesting. It had wonderful flavors, but the abalone wasn''t as tender as it could be.

I tried day boat scallops with fingerling potatoes and truffle vinaigrette. The scallops were nicely browned, yet tender, and again, this kitchen uses commendable restraint with strong, supporting flavors such as truffles. I''ve had the swordfish twice recently. It was superb in both cases-with spinach and with Jerusalem artichokes.

A favorite from the pre-remodeling phase that hopefully will remain on the menu is the chef''s signature short ribs with whipped potatoes and white truffle oil. It is a divine dish, and it''s a good thing the portion isn''t any larger-I would likely suffocate in it. Another showpiece, Duck, Duck, Goose, features duck with two different sauces and foie gras. The sauces will vary, but you can depend on this dish to be exciting.

The desserts, by pastry chef Elizabeth Scherber, are edible art. I liked the Page mandarin sorbet with buttermilk panna cotta and cara cara ice. All that translates into a creamy custard with fruity, icy accents.

Yes, dinner at Pacific''s Edge is heady. This isn''t any old night out. The food deserves to be the central focus of the evening. I''m not suggesting you dine in silence, but do stop now and then to look out the window. Run your hands along the linen. Periodically appreciate the wood, stone, dishes, and crystal. Savor it all.