A homily to a new shrine to steak, Seventh & Dolores in Carmel.

Something about the building on the corner of Seventh and Dolores in downtown Carmel reminds me of a church, or some kind of religious center, though as it turns out it was a bank and an event venue before it opened as a restaurant at the start of July. Standing outside one breezy Friday night, observing the tall new fire pits and beckoning high ceilings a few steps away, I felt a spiritual vibe in the air. 

Walking in, my group and I were seated in a matter of minutes (despite not making a reservation). A friendly and inviting atmosphere emanated from the staff, and from the bustling joy that seemed to fill the sizable room. Two bars sit in two corners, one where guests can observe the raw bar at work, the other home to a cocktail-making extravaganza. A large dining area spans the rest of the airy white hall, with space that seemed to go up three stories – maybe the religious feeling for me is just about the ceilings. Additional dining space sits to the south of the main room, ready for private parties and special events.

The 7D team comes from Folktale Winery, led by owner Gregory Ahn, Executive Chef Todd Fisher and Chef de Cuisine Jeremiah Tydeman, and together they aim to summon a divine experience.

Such an experience began with some seafood starters. Zesty and refreshing, the raw Malpeque oysters ($3.25/each; mixed dozen $38) taste like cucumber, while the smaller raw Miyagi shells ($3.25/each) housed buttery little bites that whet the appetite. 7D’s fried calamari ($17) came saltier than squid usually does, but burst with flavor, especially dipped in lemony aioli.

Possibly one of my favorite things to eat is bone marrow, and my expectations were surpassed when it arrived in multiple ways: a large chunk of bone with the porterhouse ($86) and another chunk with the steak frites ($28) – both served with tiny spoons – and then in the form of bone marrow mushrooms ($8) that were earthy and meaty and could be a satisfying main course on their own. 

The porterhouse provided more than enough for the five of us to each sample a good amount. Delivered pinpoint medium rare as requested, the sauces brought it to life, two of which included chimichurri (thyme, parsley, chives and oregano) and Bordelaise, based with a bone marrow, red wine and veal broth potion that is a treasure on its own. Caramelized cippolini onions had me salivating and acted as a complement to every bite. Other cooking options include black and blue: black on the outside, raw inside; charred with butter; and shoe-leather: very well done. (Or they will make it however you want it.) 

The yummy hanger steak frites arrived on a cutting board in a good portion-size and a fun (and at $28, more affordable) way to try the meat. I like my fries less crunchy and airy, but my friends didn’t seem to mind. 

A salad and another side dish filled us up, but not enough to neglect more sides and seafood offerings. Our server raved about the warm Napa wedge salad ($14), and the spicy grapefruit and ripe avocado rounded out a sweetness that I crave when munching greens. The miso squash ($8) sounded like an interesting side, and the charred veggies helped bring the umami home. 

This ceremony wasn’t over. The highlight from there involved scallops ($37) that truly melted in the mouth. In fact, the scallops were almost as meaty as the steak, and with an asparagus puree and accompanying thin asparagus strips, alongside some of the most comforting (triple cream) mashed potatoes one could imagine, it may have been my favorite menu item next to the porterhouse. 

Crispy potatoes came as a foundation for olive oil poached salmon ($33). The flavors were extraordinary, with a very heavy hand of fresh fennel (which I’m not a huge fan of but many others thoroughly enjoyed). Though slightly overcooked (a consequence of poaching), the fish still had a delicate texture and left a good impression. 

Wrapping up the meal, the beignets ($10) by pastry chef Heidi Saterlee were tasty, airy, tender and doughy at the same time, lifted further by a goat cheese-and-yuzu cream.

More to love can be found on the more accessible – and new – lunch menu, which is also available daily. Temptations involve the dry-aged rib-eye, filet mignon and brisket burger with “marrownaise” ($22), ahi tuna salad ($20) and the salt brick half chicken ($29).

I’m not the only one who has felt spiritual sensations in this spot. Father Fisher explains that the place demanded a special operation, like a heartfelt steakhouse, a rare (so to speak) thing in this area. “We wanted to do something unique,” he told me later, “and we wanted to be a modern steakhouse. The herringbone floor, the high ceilings… the space screamed it.” 

Indeed, the atmosphere screams for something, and the team has delivered the right place for a holy service. 

At least in worship to steak. An amen is in order.  

Seventh and Dolores Southeast corner of Seventh and Dolores, Carmel •11:30am-10pm daily. • 293-7600, 7dsteakhouse.com.