Pastelitos
Sure, you could fill up on pupusas. And perhaps that should be a go-to. It’s in their name, after all – El Savadoreño Pupuseria is known for the stuffed corn tortilla pads that are popular street fare.
But another savory pastry deserves some billing. The pastelitos prepared by Lorena Salmeron and her kitchen are modest in stature, yet brawny in flavor with a filling that is at once homey and urbane. The burrowing heft of ground beef is mellowed by potato and lifted by the sweet, earthy note sounded by bits of carrot.
The crust adds a distinct tremor – a rustic, grounded register of spice akin to toasted cumin or allspice, with a nip of pepper. Annatto is a common addition to the dough, for its unique butternut squash hue and musky savor. But there may be a boost from paprika in there, as well.
It doesn’t matter, either way. The clever intonations from the crust lend a guttural depth to the meat that becomes difficult to resist.
Yes, the pastelitos are simple – these are snacks, by tradition. But they are also homey and engaging – and rich in character.
EL SALVADOREÑO PUPUSERIA, 3056 Del Monte Blvd., Marina. 747-2385.
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