EDIBLE: The good (Pfeiffer is back open!) and bad (lots is not! ) are familiar territory for Big Sur locals.

A towering redwood creaks hello. Beds of clover glow green. A crystalline Big Sur River murmurs from a distance. The freshly engineered path zigs and zags up through chaparral and oaks and fern and wild sweet pea.

It’s debatable what’s most striking about this brand new trail: 1) the native beauty; 2) the fact the sturdy route around the demolished Pfeiffer Canyon Creek Bridge was built out so quickly; 3) that so many locals and employees make the demanding half-hour, half-mile-plus climb just to get back to Highway 1, often with heavy supplies, at least twice a day; or 4) one guy we passed was carrying an extra-large pizza.

By law it’s an emergency trail for those who live and/or work on the other side. Recreational hikers who complicate the transport of gasoline and groceries aren’t allowed. But those visiting family or friends – who vouch for them by email – and stop by and sign a waiver at the Big Sur Multi-Agency Facility (aka Big Sur Station) can come across. The trail starts from the south corner of the station’s parking lot, and the staff proves very helpful (via 667-2315 or in person 9am-4pm daily).

Fortunately for our Mother’s Day mission, a friend invited us to lunch at Nepenthe (667-2345). After Alvarado Street Brewery sour beer, Herencia Altés Garnacha and pulled pork sliders at Big Sur Taphouse (667-2225) – the best place that side of the bridge for a Warriors game – the walk along Highway 1 was peaceful and surreal.

Nepenthe co-owner and longtime community pillar Kirk Gafill has seen fire and flood and island life like this; he also saw us on the side of an empty Highway 1 and gave us a lift south.

He was happy to report they’ve successfully found alternative work for all employees interested. “Everybody who wanted to work got a gig,” he said.

Today, after reopening April 1, they’re responding in much the same way they did to El Niño floods and major fires in the past: as a community-centered sanctuary. They’ve given the ping-pong table Henry Miller loved so much key placement and are making the most of the slower speeds by revisiting days when they don’t sit as many as 500 for lunch.

The homey flyer for three upcoming events reprints a historic headline: “Stuck in the Dirt at Big Sur: Record rains have led to record landslides, blocking the main highway and disrupting daily life. As nature has torn apart, however, residents have joined together.”

Game night and ping pong goes down 4-9pm with a “masters tournament” and a life-sized chess board Saturday, May 20. May 23-25 stars slideshows of historic Big Sur and Nepenthe scenes and art demos hosted by family luminaries Holly Fassett, Erin Gafill and Kaffe Fassett. June 3 is Island Fever Luau Night – “let’s embrace the island life” – with Kahlua pork specials, mai tais and grass skirts.

“People have this nostalgia for the old days,” Nepenthe Manager Alicia Hahn Peterson says. “We’d like to have some people enjoy it with us.”

Not that you need any more of an excuse than the Ambrosia burger and a glass of McIntyre Pinot overlooking the sweeping views south.

The latest combination of fire and rain has claimed plenty of casualties: Popular Maiden Publick House closed last week after nine years. Info on beloved Big Sur Bakeryis hard to come by, and not promising. Andrew Molera State Park is closed because storm damage rerouted the river through the heart of camp. Esalen Institute has implemented staggering layoffs and will remain closed until July 28.

There is good news: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park just soft-opened with 50 spots in main camp, available first-come first-serve through June 30. Nature Trail, River Path and Warden’s Path all reopened as well, as did the Liewald Flats Trail that connects to Fernwood.

And many are seizing upon the closure with resilience akin to Nepenthe’s. Post Ranch Inn continues to helicopter guests in. On the north side of the lost bridge, River Inn’s parking lot was packed. To the south, Treebones Resort and company are using Nacimiento-Fergusson Road to make long commutes to civilization from their 12-mile segment of highway handcuffed by landslides. Ventana Inn & Spa is hoping to open its campground in July with a trailer-smoker, and is taking advantage of the lull to do renovations in time for the bridge reopening in (hopefully) late September. Any number of locals take joy in walking their dogs or riding their bikes down the middle of Highway 1.

There’s also a surge of well-seasoned Big Sur traditions busting out in the coming days. The Big Big Big Big Big Sur Fashion Show moves to the Barnyard Carmel Friday, May 19 (p. 24). Annual boutique music festival Hipnic IX returns to Fernwood 3pm Friday through 2pm Sunday, May 19-21 (p. 35). Henry Miller Memorial Libraryreopens in Carmel next to Billy Quon’s Sur in the Barnyard with a party 2pm Sunday, May 28, with a half-dozen acts plus poets and dancing. It also hosts Jonathan Richman 4pm Sunday, May 21, followed by author Andrew Schelling introducing his new book on The Old Coyote of Big Sur Jaime de Angulo (May 22) and condor whisperer Joe Burnett on the return of the California giants (June 2). And – oh yes – The Big Sur International Short Film Screening Series returns Thursday, June 8. As if all the plot twists weren’t cinematic enough already.

~ QUICKBITES ~

• Rio Grill has crafted some tasty updates for its menu and throws a 33rd birthday celebration 5:30-8:30pm Thursday, May 18 ($25 benefits Ag Against Hunger), with food and drink stations proffering new creations like bison-blueberry sausage to raja-chile-and-Oaxaqueño-cheese empanadas. More on the blog, mcweekly.com.
• Alvarado Street Brewery & Grill’s also celebrating a birthday, its third, with new goods like a house-smoked pastrami cheesesteak with poblano peppers and popcorn shrimp tacos.
• El Salvadoreño Pupuseria is slotted to replace Frutti de Mar Grill in Marina at 3056 Del Monte Blvd. Frutti heads to Monterey to occupy the former Turtle Bay Taqueria.
• Holman Ranch Tavern opens in the former Will’s Fargo Saturday, May 20, with new signage and a 1-5pm party featuring live music, local wines, craft beers, food tastings and the release of the new Jarman sparkling Rosé. New menu items and more on the blog.
• Seaside-based Monterey Kombucha Brewers has registered its name – and even does some veggie brews.
• Come 6:30-8pm Saturday, May 20, a flavorful Monterey Symphony fundraiser happens pre-concert on Sunset Center’s upper terrace with food by Dametra Café, wines from Twisted Roots, music from DJ-Syence and electric violinist Nicola Reilly ($20 includes the pre-concert soiree and a concert ticket, montereysymphony.org, use code: Symphonyofflavors).
• Nielsen Brothers Market (624-6441) hosts a free wine tasting 3:30-6pm Thursday, May 25, with small bites and splashes of Catena Malbec, Head High Pinot Noir,Voss Sauvignon Blanc, McCrostie Chardonnay and Textbook Cabernet.
• Spreckels standby T&A Cafe (455-0677) is back open for the season with indulgent items like Thursday’s special, a Hot Juicy Mama burger – an Angus patty stuffed with jalapeño, chorizo and pepper-jack cheese ($8.95 with fries).
• Barack Obama: “Worry less about what you want to be and more about what you want to do in life.”