A vino lover riffs on her favorite Monterey County wines.

While it’s no secret that wine is a huge industry in Monterey County, I don’t think there’s enough of it available to the average consumer, at least not in my neck of the woods. I have complained before that downtown Monterey is lacking wine, and I believe that we deserve more than one good wine bar (Sovino Wine Bar Merchant), especially with another closing (Bakai Wine and Tapas Lounge).

There’s no shortage in Carmel Valley, or Carmel, but not everyone wants to make that trip. What about Seaside and Pacific Grove? Is it possible that there are huge populations of people who live in this grape-rich region who don’t have enough interest in wine to demand a vino bar on every corner?

In related news, wine can be intimidating. But there is a tribe of authors and sommeliers who are trying to make this particular booze more accessible, most recently writer James Gabler with the 2016 publication of How to be a Wine Expert: A Beginner’s Guide.

The book breaks down different wines by region, and has recommendations and tips for anyone with an interest in the subject. My interest is California, and the most popular choices in our state: for whites, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc; for reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah. These grapes are also at the top in Monterey County, as anyone with A Taste of Monterey wine club membership can attest (a very cool service starting at $35/month delivering Monterey wines to your door, with discounts at the tasting room on Cannery Row).

Gabler breaks down wine appreciation three ways to simulate an expert’s approach: color, smell and taste. Color shows off nuances that are probably the hardest to detect unless you’re really paying attention – like how deeper, more golden whites are usually sweet or older, while reds get lighter and browner with age instead of showing a young bluish tinge. Smell reveals the most, Gabler insists. Taste “only confirms smell,” he adds, and includes markers such as acidity, tannins, tartness and sweetness.

Color is tricky because many different wines can look almost identical. Some noticeable differences occur with Monterey’s starring reds though, like Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most beginners can see the contrast between a Pinot’s light airiness versus a Cab’s inky depth. A typical and elegant Pinot Noir expresses itself in Bernardus Winery’s 2013 vintage – not only are the notes delicate with strawberries and a peppery dryness, but the color shows a light, pinkish red and borders on translucent, which is very common for that varietal. To compare it with a local Cabernet – say, the 2012 Puma Road Cabernet, which is dark and opaque with rich cocoa, oak and cherries – one can see the difference.

Smell and taste can be easily confused, especially when it comes to fruity whites. Take the two Viogniers of Marin’s Vineyard in Lockwood, one dry and one sweet. Both look similar enough, and give off fruity tones that imply a sweetness to come. To tell the difference between fruit and sugar, two traits that are often confused, you can hold your nose when you drink. If it’s a sweet wine, you’ll still taste it, which is apparent with Marin’s “Sweetheart” Viognier, in comparison with the dry, green melon original.

One of my favorite pieces of wine advice is from my first guidebook, What’s a Wine Lover To Do? Wine columnist Wes Marshall suggests some categories for identifying smells, starting with fruity flavors. For reds, the common options are red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, red currant) or black fruit (black plum, blackberry, cherry). For whites, tropical fruit (passion fruit, pineapple), citrus (grapefruit, lemon) or pome fruits (apple, pear). Marshall lists other aromas to keep in mind next, such as vanilla, caramel, black pepper, minerals, herbs and flowers, and adds, “Some of France’s most prized wines smell like a barnyard after summer rain.”

Chardonnay, one of Monterey’s most common wines, can deliver diverse smells and tastes even when two vintages are made across the road from each other. A pretty classic Chardonnay scent is apple, but beyond that the options are endless. Some people prefer unoaked Chards because without the wooden flavors other notes really shine. An unoaked 2014 from Lepe Cellars elicits clear honey, pear and citrus, exemplifying an Old World style. A fittingly named “Tribute” Chardonnay comes from J. McFarland, with butterscotch oakiness and cream.

When it comes down to it, whether you’re an expert or you haven’t acquired the taste yet, Monterey presents a superlative place to enjoy what the world of vino has to give. Paying attention helps.

A Taste of Monterey 700 Cannery Row, Monterey. 11am-6pm Sun-Thu; until 8pm Fri-Sat. 646-5446, www.atasteofmonterey.com.

Bernardus 5 West Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 11am-5pm daily. 298-8021, www.bernardus.com.

Marin’s Vineyard 67997 Jolon Road, Lockwood. 11am-6pm Sat-Sun. www.marinsvineyard.com.

J. McFarland 38 Fourth St., Gonzales. 675-2311, www.jmcfarlandwines.com.

Puma Road 2999 Monterey-Salinas Highway, Monterey. Noon-7pm daily. 372-1909, www.pumaroad.com.