A nonalcoholic cocktail at Rio Grill takes the mocktail to a new level.

The pineapple juice carries a candied heft – sweeter and richer than fresh juice, without sacrificing that burst of tropical brightness. There’s a brief effervescent sensation, but it embraces the chipotle salt on the rim. And a smoky heat flares at the finish, flickering on the back of your palate. Each sip builds on the last, yet it remains refreshing and easy to drink. You have another, because there are no consequences: The Prickly Porcupine is a nonalcoholic cocktail.

So what kind of sorcery was involved to bring this combination of pineapple juice, serrano chilies, peppercorns and lime zest into such a blissful state? None, really – if Rio Grill’s bar manager Patrick Fischer is to be believed. The secret is simply infusing the juice with muddled black peppercorns, serrano, jalapeño, lime zest and some sugar for 24 hours.

It’s earthy and sharp, with wisps of smoke and salt under the fruit – pineapple-forward, without letting the juice take over. “I like to have balance, to find that happy medium,” Fischer says.

It’s named after a beloved porcupine sculture that was stolen from the restaurant; at least we can drink to its memory.

RIO GRILL 101 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 625-5436, riogrill.com