Update on controversial 'fresh market' concept in Carmel from Carmel Belle owners.

For years Chloe and Jay Dolata have steadily grown a loyal following at Carmel Belle (624-1600) in Carmel by way of wholesome ingredients, rustic organic grub and magnetic atmosphere.

Against the backdrop of 40 other restaurants within a square mile, they're doing something different, more youthful and less rigid than their peers.

The simplicity of things like the poached egg breakfast sandwich, quinoa mac 'n' cheese and stone fruit salad feed into its appeal.

So does the simplicity of counter service, something forbidden in Carmel but grandfathered in at their Doud Arcade location.

There was understandable excitement when they pitched the city on a new use for the Seventh & Dolores "city center" at those same cross streets, which has largely gone unused since Carmel transformed it into an event venue (aside from the occasional to-do, like the Maserati Car Week display happening as this goes live).

The idea was a fusion of wine bar-deli-community lounge.

In short, something new, different and contemporary.

But nearby restaurant owners protested at the City Council's public hearing on the matter and the proposal was sent back to the Dolatas with recommendations to make it more of a conventional restaurant.

The revised plan got its chance for consideration at the start of this month. 

The new blueprint called for a sizable 124-seat sit-down establishment with wine and cheese bars—not unlike Carmel Belle's auxiliary juice bar—and a counter with cash registers.

And again, restaurateurs rang out against it, alleging that the new plan was essentially a panacea for the council that would lead to what they characterize as a "food court."

Rich Pepe (of Vesuvio, Little Napoli and Napoli Wine Bar, the latter which sits just across Seventh) led the charge. 

In an email to dozens of fellow restauranteurs rallying opposition he wrote, "Cafeteria/food court operation in Carmel will only…damage Carmel's fine reputation as a unique village."

Which, to anyone who follows Carmel politics, sounds familiar.

Haters said the same thing when David Fink proposed what's now 400 Degrees, saying being able to order from a counter (and get the fancy burger brought to your table) would lead to an outbreak of fast food and, yes, destroy the village charm.

That was also the refrain when Dolata's contemporary Gabe Georis brought live music—and the most happening scene Carmel has known in years—to Mundaka and Barmel.

Ironically enough, Fink and Georis' father/advisor Gaston Georis joined Pepe in protesting Seventh & Dolores. 

Oh, Carmel.

The plan was sent back to the planning commission with recommendations that include removing the display counter and transferring some of the outdoor seating to the interior of the building.

The Dolatas are frustrated, and leaving the rest of the permitting process to building owner Fred Kern.

"Although we had a lot of wonderful feedback and support from city officials about how great this concept would be in Carmel, the city is just not ready for it," Jay Dolata says. "The city codes are outdated and don’t allow for a concept that Chloe and I want. Hopefully the city will see that the codes need to change or Carmel will face the danger of becoming out-dated, old and tired.

"We also received backlash from some of the 'old-guard' restaurants in town that are threatened by the thought of competition and a new and different concept. They seem to like Carmel the way it is."

Fink, who sits on the City Council's restaurant subcommittee with Pepe, agrees at least in part.

"We probably need to modernize the rules," he says. "They haven’t been changed since mid-'70s."

He cites how much excitement Cultura Comida y Bebida, a restaurant with younger creators, has generated, and envisions something for Carmel like The Shed in Healdsburg, a market-cafe-shop-community gathering space.

Then he adds: "Seventh and Dolores just isn't the right spot for it."

Seems like a great place to me, and the Dolatas' original plan incorporated much of what makes The Shed cool.

In his email to dozens of restauranteurs (and some residents, including outspoken residents association chief Barbara Livingston), Pepe insists it's not about losing out on business.

"It has nothing to do with competition, it has everything to do with operating a business with the same set of rules for everyone which are in place for the betterment of the city," he writes.

Dolata isn't buying that.

"In fact, these restaurants are trying to get a cap put on the number of new restaurants in Carmel," he says. "So that means formal table-side service for everyone! No variety. No new fresh experiences for dining in Carmel. Have a seat and wait for your waiter."

I asked Pepe for his thoughts on two fronts.

Per the cap on restaurants, he says: "I do not favor a cap on restaurants. That would put too much power in the hands of the landlords and rents could skyrocket.

"Although the available water credits being sold by Clint Eastwood could allow new restaurants to open in former retail spaces, if too many new food establishments open it might alter the interesting mix of stores Carmel currently has. There is a fine line between enough and too many."

On his vision for Seventh & Dolores: "If a traditional full-line restaurant was proposed in this space it might be approved.

"The building is zoned properly for that use. Currently the codes state clearly a full-line restaurant must provide table service, where a guest orders and pays at a table, not standing at a counter. Any take-out food is subordinate and no deli-type or display showcases or counters are allowed.

"Keeping the event center permit attached to a full-line restaurant was rejected the council. That will be a decision to make by the next proposal."