PHOTOS: Zesty, family-run Taqueria Zarape freshly open in old Curly's in Seaside.

It is amazing what watching a restaurant go from beat-up barbecue joint to shiny new taqueria can do for one's appetite.

Taqueria Zarape (899-1125) just opened on Fremont Boulevard next to the Weekly world headquarters today, making today an unofficial holiday for our staff and an official hallelujah day for me, since I've been watching its rebirth hour by hour, day by day, from the window next to my desk that overlooks the property.

The signature shrimp in the flagship taco ($3.50) comes generously portioned, and sizzled in a secret soy sauce-mayo-spiced butter that made them a hit in hipster-rich Santa Cruz.

The round and dynamic flavor cooks into the both the shrimp and the tilapia in the equally tasty fish tacos on the hot flat grill, leaving the flavor infused and the taco light on grease. 

Other early highlights: a roasted chicken super quesadilla ($5.25) loaded with guac, sour cream and lettuce; a saucy and nicely textured al pastor taco ($2.25); and a carnitas torta with a surprisingly flavorful pork base ($5.75).

The brothers behind it—I've met at least three as they personally painted, pounded and polished during the make over, but there might be more in the mix—come from successful taco joints Taqueria Agave on Soquel Avenue in Santa Cruz and two Tacos Gallos (Uno y Dos) in Scotts Valley.

The varied breakfast options include dishes of eggs with a choice of chorizo, ham, or bacon with potatoes ($5.75), and a classic huevos rancheros plate ($5.75).

Breakfast burritos ($5.75) are available in classic California style, or as a plate with beans, rice and a piles of small corn tortillas, like the egg-bacon-and-potatoes plate ($7.25) I tried this morning. Quality, properly cooked bacon—give the rare stuff to someone besides me—and well-seasoned eggs and potatoes make for a tasty little taco. 

Lunch and dinner include staples: tacos, burritos, tostadas and quesadillas.

While the shrimp tacos are renowned, Zarape offers multiple taco options: fish and the customer’s choice of meat, all including salsa.

The salsa bar, like everything I've tried and observed, is solid, with jalapeño-pickled carrots, pico de gallo, three superb red sauces of ranging spiciness, radishes and fresh limes—and the star, a mild tomatillo-avocado-onion-cilantro number.

With complimentary thick, house-fried chips, the salsas are a godsend—and a reason for coming all by themselves (just make sure to get your entree on), and a good microcosm of the wider operation.

"We do everything from scratch," co-owner Carlos Ruiz says, "and we do everything here."

Burritos come regular ($6.25), super ($7), or jumbo ($7.50), including beans, rice, cheese, guacamole, lettuce, and the customer’s choice of meat. The taqueria’s specials include camarones "a la diabla” ($10.50), shrimp marinated and sautéed in a house-recipe spicy sauce, as well as steak and shrimp Rancheros.

For its herbivorous eaters, Zarape presents a vegetarian section, which boasts veggie tacos ($3.50), burritos ($5.50), quesadillas ($4.20) and tostadas ($4). 

Ellie Newman contributed to this report.