PHOTOS: Cultura launches in Carmel with a Soberanes Fire fundraiser.

The super group of chefs and sommeliers assembled to debut Cultura Comida y Bebida in Carmel this week has been enjoying the anticipation as much as eager local foodies.

Except for at least one common reaction they've been getting: "Carmel totally needs a Mexican restaurant!" 

Because this place will be many things, including the hottest new restaurant to hit Carmel in a generation, but it will not be a straight Mexican restaurant.

Far from it.

Not that exactly what it will be is all that simple to articulate.

Here's what we do know:

It will star mezcal, lots of it, often rare and hard-to-find bottles from small family farms.

It will feature intriguing Iberian Peninsula wines, because Cultura creator and wine whisperer Sarah Kabat-Marcy loves interesting vinos from that region.

It will do daring things with a kaleidoscope of well-sourced ingredients, unconventional creativity and fine-dining execution worthy of Sierra Mar, where Executive Chef Michelle Estigoy and consulting chef John Cox worked for years.

It will allow for both casual street taco-and-cerveza fare, but also super-spendy Black River caviar and Wagyu steaks.

It will occupy a historic Carmel property where Jack London's last sat, with an overhauled kitchen, bathroom and dining room; the only things that remain are compliments to the place, like the mahogany ceilings in the bar, stained glass in the ceiling of the entry, crescent-moon door to the restroom.

It will pour Tecate on tap, but also formidable cocktails like El Destilado with St. Germain, chamomile, cherry, Fino sherry and almond-infused mezcal.

It will partner with small sustainable farmers and fair-trade mezcaleros, to the point of commissioning its own farm in Aromas to raise things like hot peppers, heirloom tomatoes, corn and even grasshoppers to their specs.

Cox calls it "a Carmel restaurant with Oaxacan inspiration."

"You'll see awesome local product, but now we're looking at it through the context of modern Mexican cooking," he says. "And it will continue to evolve as our travels take us new places."

Not Americanized Mexican, he says, but something much closer to what contemporary chefs are doing in Oaxaca City. He believes the fact that a number of cooks and other kitchen staff of Oaxacan descent have been petitioning for work there speaks to the authenticity of what they're going for. 

For now that also includes Yucatan-style treatments—Estigoy and Cox have been taste-testing the team on items like a local fresh halibut ceviche with habanero pepper, coconut water and lime juice with a housemade coconut-dried corn cracker.

Another recipe Cox is excited about: a smoked pork plate with Estigoy's own take on a Oaxacan black mole.

(Check out other food stuffs—like calabasitas and Monterey abalone—they're simmering up at the Cultura website.)

In the bar, two longtime industry pros known more for their food than their drink are stirring up some intriguing things. 

Kyle Odell (formerly of Carmel Belle) says they're living "a bartender's fantasy" crafting things like "Apio y Miel" (aka "Celery and Honey") with mezcal, celery juice, honey and lime.

Matt Glazer (Esalen, Big Sur Roadhouse) points out it's not that different than what happens in the kitchen.

"Bar tending is line cooking with a different set of ingredients," he says. "You still have your mis en place and flavor profiles."

Another eye-opener from the cocktail list, which will also include a flight of sought-after small-batch mezcals: The "Despiertate" (or "Wake Up")—with mezcal, brandy, Acme Coffee cold brew, spicy chocolate mole sugar and cream.

New stone tables in the patio will host parties al fresco, and, thanks to a grandfathered-in use permit, it will allow for food and drink until 8pm.

Inside, they plan on keeping the bar open until 1am on weekends, fueled by bar snacks like roasted grasshoppers, or chapulines, with ground pequin chili pepper, salt and lime juice; "chicharrones" made of corn with hot sauce; and skin-on roasted peanuts with arbol peppers and garlic.

Cox acquired a bell like those he saw in Alaska fisherman bars last month in case someone happens to bring in a big catch and wants to ring it and buy everyone a drink. 

In the dining room, Kabat-Marcy commissioned young artist Beau Frank to do lush portraits of Mexican women to represent the different types of agave to go with other stylish found objects and Mexican artifacts.

Rebecca Riddell collaborated on design, which includes at least three skulls.

The restaurant opens for reservations Thursday, Aug. 11.

But it does a special debut Friday, Aug. 5, with a Soberanes Fire Relief dinner ($500 donation) they're calling "an exclusive opportunity for a small group of people to have the first tastes of Cultura cuisine and an early look inside the restaurant."

Interested parties can email culturacomidaybebida@gmail.com for a seat.

Here's the word from Kabat-Marcy and Cox:

The Soberanes Fire has not only taken its toll on homes and the spirit of its residents, it has greatly impacted the livelihood of farmers and other culinary artisans that call Palo Colorado Canyon & Big Sur their home. They are an irreplaceable part of our hospitality community. Their contributions are critical to preserving our local culinary heritage.

The Community Foundation for Monterey County (CFMC) will earmark donations from our fundraising dinner exclusively for the rebuilding of dairies, orchards, apiaries and other sustainable food systems in areas ravaged by the fire.

Each ticket will include a five course tasting menu, paired with our own personal collection of mezcals (and a few very special bottles of wine).

As an added incentive, whichever guest makes the largest donation to the Soberanes Fire Fund of the Community Foundation for Monterey County will be invited to select a bottle of mezcal from our reserve library collection.

This bottle will be marked with the donor’s name and kept on display behind the bar for their exclusive enjoyment with friends and family upon future visits to Cultura.

Our hearts are broken by the profound loss this fire has brought to our community. In addition to funds we collect for the Soberanes Fire Fund of the Community Foundation for Monterey County, our business will be committing 100 hours of volunteer labor to help with rebuilding efforts.

We invite you to join us as we help to rebuild our community together.

For all other information or reservation requests, please keep an eye on our webpage - www.culturacarmel.com We will soon be adding a reservation link and full webpage.