Pairing Off: Pitting a wine against smoked oysters from a tin. Yes, we went there.

Remember when we could afford to order a pile of Belon oysters flown over fresh from the coast of France?

OK, but at least there was a time before the lexicon of pandemic, supply chain, war and inflation interrupted our indulgent tendencies that we thought nothing of shelling out for shellfish. Maybe the oysters called the Gulf of Mexico home, but at least we could call for another dozen.

Nowadays we have to lower our standards and settle for less expensive options. How low are we willing to go? Yep, those smoked oysters you see in tins stacked on grocery shelves.

These are not the plump havens of briny minerality on the half shell perked by a brisk mignonette. The nuggets in question have been soaking in murky oil for who knows how long. The meat absorbs heavy smoke and stale oil, taking on a musty sensation.

“Those things are so strong,” warns Doug Hewett at the Dawn’s Dream Winery tasting room in Carmel.

A platter of oysters on the half shell would normally be a reason to pop open a fine sparkling wine from, say, Caraccioli Cellars or Scheid Vineyards. A tin from the supermarket would just drag an occasion wine down to earth.

So what should we do?

Hewett sounds a cautious note when it comes to such a pairing. A big, pugnacious red—or any wine with some swagger—could quickly become an issue.

“You don’t want combat in your mouth,” he says.

He suggests a wine that is more demure—an unoaked Chardonnay, perhaps, or a food friendly and forgiving Rosé. And as luck would have it, Dawn’s Dream turns out an award winning Rosé of Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands.

The wine is delicate, teasing you with aromas of stone fruits and meadow flowers, with hints of zest and ocean breeze. On the palate, impressions of grapefruit join the basket, with a lean salinity, a notion of ginger with an effervescent lilt and juicy citrus. An earthy must brings depth to the finish.

It’s a wine that holds up to the smoked oysters, losing some of the brisk acidity while becoming juicier. Citrus and zest linger on the palate and the faint spice evident when sipped along gains more notice. The oysters benefit from all of this—meatier, almost like a backyard burger (albeit a rather oily burger). 

The popularity of Rosé from Dawn’s Dream almost prevented such a pairing. It proved to be such a hit that the winery sold out in November. Fortunately there were enough grapes for a restock.

Hewett promises the 2021 vintage will be available. That's good news because it’s a good package—if you must stoop to smoked oysters from a tin.