Hot-spot-to-be Cultura Comida y Bebida making major strides in Carmel.

Sometimes things look or sound so good you can almost taste them ahead of time.

That's been the case with the concept conceived by Sarah Kabat-Marcy and company for Cultura Comida y Bebida, coming to the former Jack London's off Dolores in Carmel.

Now they're actually getting that taste, as they run through test menus, and early returns are eclipsing lofty expectations. 

Think pork shoulder, smoked overnight, in a hand-crafted mole sauce, laid over fresh pressed squash blossom-safflower tortillas with sour oranges.

“We’ve been putting together the ideas with pen and paper for several months, so doing a mock service was a lot of fun," Kabat-Marcy says, "just creating these flavors—the presentation and flavor and freshness totally surpassed what we had in our minds."

Kabat-Marcy spent significant time at one of the better restaurants in the world for my dollar, Sierra Mar at Post Ranch in Big Sur, and brought over former Sierra Mar sous chef Michelle Estigoy to reimagine Oaxacan-leaning dishes with a vivacity only possible with local ingredients and a coastal Californian twist.

Speaking of twist: I learned this week former Sierra Mar executive chef John Cox, a real pioneer of smart sourcing and creative culinary techniques, is a partner in the project.

That's a sign this thing is about more than innovative food alone, but about progressive systems and ultimately evolving how we look at what's on the plate.

"When Sarah and I started talking about the project, one thing we strongly agreed on is that the restaurant should be a culture that promotes new talent and incubates innovative ideas," Cox says. "This was one of the main reasons behind the name 'Cultura': It is equally about showcasing our love of the Mexican culture and developing our own business culture.

"Our hope is that the restaurant provides a opportunity for a new generation of chefs, artists, farmers, mixologists and other artisans to highlight their own skills and innovations."

That includes partnering with an Aromas farmer for a customized restaurant plot of about an acre—cultivating Oaxacan chiles, heirloom beans and Mexican corn varietals, among other specialty items—as well as developing connections with artisan mezcal producers and eventually connecting both farmer and spirit maker with other restaurants under a Cultura label.

The restaurant's on track to open in late July or early August.