Celeb chef Todd Fisher in as new chef at landmark Tarpy's Roadhouse.

Two local monuments are suddenly in cahoots: Todd Fisher and Tarpy's Roadhouse are teaming up in a blockbuster partnership that marks major—and mouthwatering—food news for the area's epicure community. 

Fisher is the gregarious local favorite who has ridden stylish food designs and a plus-sized personality to renown at now-departed Hullabaloo in Salinas, popularity at STICKS bar and grill and Pebble Beach Food & Wine in Del Monte Forest—and a national following on TV with United States of Bacon. 

Tarpy's is one of the truly landmark properties on the Monterey Peninsula, a quarter century staple that draws some of the greatest volume for its historic ranch setting and casual-sophisticated Americana food.

Fisher needed to spread his creative wings. Tarpy's needed to reboot after parting ways with longtime exec chef Michael Kimmel several months ago. Monterey County eaters needed a flavor capital maximized.

Triple mission accomplished.

After the tides of email alerts suggesting it could be a good fit continued to flow in, Fisher finally picked up the phone and called Tarpy's and Downtown Dining restaurant group head Tony Tollner. 

"I am very pleased with the progress at STICKS, but I'm limited by the casual sports bar theme, which is where we had to stay because we didn't want to compete with [other Pebble properties] Peppoli and The Bench," Fisher says. "I wanted a greater challenge. I was ready for something major."

Talks with other Downtown Dining executive chefs CyYontz (RioGrill) and TonyBaker (MontrioBistro) were energizing. Eventually a short conversation with Tollner turned into a long one.

"I didn't want to make a move for the sake of making a move," Fisher says. "It's a place where I can really sink my teeth into it, do something amazing for a Monterey Peninsula."

"Todd is such a perfect fit for Tarpy's and we're such a perfect fit for him," Tollner says. "I did five chef tastings, interviewed a ton of people and I'm glad I waited. Todd's just a cowboy, we're kind of a cowboy place and he's the right guy for the job."

Tollner's willingness to do far more than tinker with the restaurant's DNA was a key.

As Fisher says, "I thought, 'He's serious, not just talking about changing the polenta and mushroom.' This is what Monterey dining is supposed to be—fresh, relevant, contemporary."

He aims to reclaim the roadhouse concept with elements like housemade stocks and dressings; family style, slow-roasted pork belly "pickin' plates" served with corn, hog wash, meat rolls and your own cleaver; terrines, potted meats and rabbit pot pie; and tastes like the Carolina barbecued oyster with cornbread, charred ramps and bacon he'll debut at the Sunday grand tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine.

"We want to bring that edge back to Tarpy's," Fisher says. "What does the new American roadhouse look like? It will fit very comfortably in my style." 

"He did a tasting that really captured us," Tollner says. "I all of a sudden said, 'Oh, this is what I want for Tarpy's. I have my own ideas, but he did his own thing and really nailed it."

Fisher acknowledges the size and volume that Tarpy's does is "daunting," but also allows for unique special events and other opportunities.

"I can't wait to throw things in the gardens—and not just flowers and herbs," he says. "We've got a quarter acre outside our back door. And there's a huge rooftop—we can do our own sea salts." 

And they can do great things for a resurgent local food scene.