Bright Work

Master jeweler Steve Saunders in his Monterey studio, where he likes to engage with customers. “When I started they thought I was crazy – now they finish my sentences,” he says. On the counter is his sculpture inspired by a tree, or an embrace.

The sign tells you that Steve Saunders is a master jeweler, and the pieces on display serve as confirmation. There are intricate sculptures, precious metals formed into rings, bracelets and other items that reveal something more – an idea, perhaps, or a thought.

But Saunders is willing to share his philosophy as well as his art. Some he tosses out as conventional aphorisms. “Necessity is the mother of invention” is his way of explaining how he started the shop, tucked into Bonifacio Plaza in downtown Monterey, where he does high-end craft jewelry and repair. “The best cooks have the messiest kitchens” dismisses the clutter behind his display cases. Saunders is, however, given to thoughtful conversation as broad in scope as his custom-made jewelry.

He grew up in New York City, where he says “you can find anything in the world but one thing – silence.” Seeking peace, he landed in Monterey County. “I came out here, found this place and loved it.”

During the late 1960s and early ’70s, Saunders operated Heavy Leather Steve’s in Manhattan, where he sold one-of-a-kind items like decorated clothing to the likes of Jill St. John. (“She tried to hustle me, so I charged her an extra $150,” he says with a laugh.) After coming to Monterey County, he worked as a jeweler in Carmel, Salinas and Monterey’s Del Monte Shopping Center before opening in downtown in 2000.

Two hip surgeries last year – one requiring painkillers throughout the recovery process – led Saunders to richer philosophical discovery.

Weekly: The surgeries – that seems difficult, to say the least.

Saunders: When I finally got back to work, I had no desire to create anything. I had to challenge myself. I decided to do 20 pieces at one time and through that process I rekindled my creative energy. I would say I’m back.

Clearly the business has kept you busy.

When I found this place, my projection that first year was $140,000 [in sales]. I did $132,000. I thought, “I can only go up from here.” Wrong. My business was like a ski slope. I learned about the power of consciousness. When my business got bad, my perspective got bad. I didn’t want to go to work in the mornings. Then I watched a show on PBS – [about] the power of a smile. Next time you feel bad, smile. I smiled. It felt good. That morning when I went to work, there were people waiting for me to open.

So the power of consciousness?

It’s almost like jewelry work is an excuse to share my philosophy. All energy is an expression of intention manifested. What does it take to source intention? There’s only one thing that can manifest intention, and that’s consciousness. Consciousness is at the center of self and the source of everything.

How does that translate into your jewelry?

My favorite experience is beauty. It brings joy. And if I can’t find any, I make it myself. I’m self-motivated and I’ve learned to follow that instinct. I use jewelry to talk to people.

What is your creative process?

I go by what feels right. When I get tired, I distract myself with something else. Something will just pop into my head. I dream when I’m awake.

Do you have a favorite piece?

It all depends on the moment. You see the tree [points to a sculpture resembling an abstract flowing tree]. It’s a complete expression. When I made it, I’m thinking roots, sun, branches. But each piece when separated becomes its own sculpture. You see roots – two pairs of legs. You see arms, two heads. You have a divine embrace. I don’t mean to toot my own horn, but that’s creativity.

How did you get started?

When I was a kid, I wanted a studded leather belt. I made a belt and a wristband. One night I went to a disco and the guy at the door stopped me. He said, “Where did you get those?” I told him and he said. “Can you make me one?” I said, “Sure, if I can set up and sell here.”

That was the beginning.

You’ve certainly had an interesting life.

You have two choices. You can die while living or live while dying. I choose to live while I’m dying. If anyone can come up with a better concept, I’m willing to listen.

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