Whaling Station | David Stember

Beef Wellington

Yes, Wellington clobbered Napoleon at Waterloo – that happened. But the Beef Wellington presented in his honor by thrilled royalty? Nah. The dish isn’t found in dusty British cookbooks. Instead, it was a favorite of the supper clubs and wood-paneled steakhouses of the 1960s, here in the U.S. The version served at Whaling Station Steakhouse in Monterey is a bit of culinary nostalgia – a throwback to days before heart-healthy, gluten-free or kale chips were things, when hearty opulence was in vogue.

There is an elegance to Beef Wellington that just can’t be mimicked by another presentation of steak. Although the filet mignon was pushed toward medium, it remains plush, with a brawny mumble that deepens into an earthy gnarl thanks to the layer of duxelles – that musty blanket of mushrooms, with a raspy snap of onion and garlic. Puff pastry provides a delicate sheen and mellow, uplifting sweetness. These are brought into concert by a reduction of wine and truffle – the dense funk swelling through meat and duxelles, the bright fruit peeking over the crust.

It’s a reminder of past culinary heights.

WHALING STATION Steakhouse 763 Wave St., Monterey. 373-3778, thewhalingstation.com