News Buffet
The top epicurean news nibbles of the moment are momentous. And mouthwatering.
By Mark C. Anderson
No news is not good news. Not in an arena where fresh is best, and excitement can and should be edible. Which makes the problem I’m facing a good one: I have no fewer than nine storylines that could occupy all of this space by their lonesome – from the most anticipated farmers market in the field to DJ dance brunches. But since they all deserve attention, we’re squeezing them all in immediately.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m not complaining. I’m celebrating. And hustling to keep up. Onward:
• At Rocky Point (624-2933), Exec Chef Christophe Bony said bon voyage after little more than two months of re-launching the landmark restaurant on Big Sur’s Palo Colorado coast – and after canning a longtime server at least in part for putting together a Kentucky Derby betting pool. Working 63 days in a row might’ve had something to do with Bony’s bye bye, but so did the opportunity to invest more time in less stressful projects. Owner Peter Wang’s RP 2.0 remains a dramatic upgrade over the tired predecessor, with casual quality and the spellbinding view best seized at sunset with Anderson Valley Husch Sauvignon Blanc ($30/bottle), day-boat scallops ($28) and Kumamoto oysters ($12).
• Home of the best food you’ll find in a sports bar, true gastropub Brophy’s Tavern (624-2476) finds itself in serious flux. Co-owner Brett Wales, who helped engineer its renaissance over the last few years, sold his share and is looking for another property. Undercover superstar chef Brian Christensen is on the injured reserve for the time being after allegedly falling down a cliff while foraging out at White Rock. Dayum. Feel better BC.
•Coastal Luxury Management is shaking things up, and not just with the Rock ‘n’ Roll Sunday Brunch at Restaurant 1833 (643-1833) – which overflows gloriously with burning candelabras, dance music from DJ Bad DJ, superior smoked salmon ($8), croissant BLTs ($9), fried chicken and waffles ($24), corpse reviver no. 2s with absinthe and Tanqueray ($11) and Ryan Zen Lama dancing on tables. They’re revving up at Cannery Row Brewing Company (643-2722) with a little more cross pollination from key 1833 pieces like Chef Levi Mezick, GM Tobias Peach and Assistant GM William Townsend. Expect much better service to match the best sliders by the bay and big things in the underutilized downstairs space where Live From the Bassment returns for another zesty jam session/Hanif Wondir b-day party Tuesday, June 11.
• At Post Ranch Inn (667-2200), they’re adding even more breakthroughs to amplify the otherworldly artistry conjured by Exec Chef John Cox, including a greenhouse that doubles as a private dining room, a 60-hen chicken coop and more foraging than ever before. We were up there to shoot a short film on some of the insanely creative foodstuffs he’s doing at the moment and ended up taking a gourmand’s dream nature hike to seek out mugwort, redwood strawberries and alyssum blossoms. To see the video, jump to the blog (www.mcweekly.com/edible) or subscribe to the foodie newsletter (www.mcweekly.com/subscribe).
• Spotted among the painted-on corsets, animal bone necklaces and tooth fairy dust at the must-see Big Big Big Big Sur Fashion Show, Matt Glazer is simmering quite a concept for coastal soul food with New Orleans flavors at his reopening-in-July Big Sur Roadhouse (667-2264). He promises not only hearty and healthy options – seabass on long-cooked kale, sand dab po’ boys and artichoke salads – but intentional vegan choices too. “We are up for the challenge of making people happy,” he says. “We are for the people: the ones who live here, the ones who visit here, and the ones who find themselves here.”
•After some soft opening action, Valley Hills Deli and Barbecue (293-8608) officially opens Tuesday, June 11, on the Carmel Valley Road strip next to Wagon Wheel (624-8878) and Baja Cantina (625-2252). As Ryan Sanchez of Bruno’s Market (624-3821) and Surf N Sand (624-1805) runs the show, look for an avalanche of Bruno’s-style sandwiches, fine cheeses, barbecue plates and beer and wine that can be sipped on the patio. Meanwhile the other freshie from Sanchezland, the new Corral de Tierra Market, rumbles on with Thirsty Thursdays and Friday night tastings. This Friday it’s Chateau Antionette (262-1624) doing sips and discounts 5-8pm. Twisted Roots (594-8282) and Bernardus (298-8021) are next.
• Carmel finally has its certified farmers market scheduled: 10am-2pm Thursdays starting June 20. It’s only fitting that a headscratcher of a time like that follows the headscratcher of a decision to ignore the recommendation of the advisory board. More on the blog.
• Dorothy Maras Ildiz shared moving words Sunday as she was honored by Meals on Wheels of the Monterey Peninsula (375-4454) as Woman of the Year. “Great civilizations are judged by how well they care for the children and the elderly. We are epically failing on both fronts. One in five children in this country does not know where [her] next meal is coming from. Our elderly are having to make choices between keeping the heat on and feeding themselves.” Get more on the blog, and links to help out.
•A tippy-top spot to taste local wines just got a lot better. As of this weekend, Weekly readers’ top vote for best wines by the glass, A Taste of Monterey (646-5446) – where about 90 Monterey County wineries’ varietals are available – now dishes small plates (like paella-stuffed pequillo peppers, $11), pizzas (including the Pig Wizard with fennel sausage, foraged mushrooms, roasted peppers and toma cheese, $13) and gourmet cheeses (bring on the Schoch Family Junipero, $6). “Everything popping with flavors,” Chef Adam Foster says. “A lot of bold tastes.” And a lot going on. Whew.
~QUICKBITES ~
• Best undercover craft beer spot in the area code: Whole Enchilada Marketplace (632-2628). In the back corner, four rotating taps pour things like Rogue Dead Guy Ale, Black Flag Imperial Stout, Hemp Ale and Kona Big Wave Golden Ale. For $3 a pint. Plus there are very good sandwiches, smoothies and an inspired selection of spirits like the very-hard-to-get local peated Scotch from Lost Spirits (235-9400) called Leviathan.
• Monterey Beer Festival ($45, www.montereycountyfair.com) cometh June 15.
• Saturday, June 8, presents a double doosey: The West Coast Chowder Competition in Custom House Plaza ($35), with a range of local and regional wines and spirits, scores all told to complement the traditional and creative chowders, and Carmel Valley Art & Wine ($30), with dozens of wineries, artists and two stages of free music.
• Saturdays like that merit a reminder that what we feed our minds and how we handle our emotions are just as important to optimal health as what we feed our bodies. Karen A. Jones, M.F.T., talks “Practical & Proven Strategies for Immune Enhancement” Saturday, June 8. Call 277-2684 for more.
•Steak and lobster run but $24.95 at Sly McFly’s (649-8050) this week.
•A while back I wrote about the Monterey Maytag salesman who ate burnt toast for breakfast every day at Loulou’s Griddle in the Middle (372-0568)… for 65 years. The sweet team at the restaurant gave away coffee and drinks in his honor over Memorial Day and ended up gathering more than $1,800 to help the family finance a funeral as his daughter is just finishing chemotherapy. Talk about a place with heart.
• Oysters are 99 cents on Sundays at Abalonetti Bar and Grill (373-1851).
• A new local food truck has surfaced in Ryan Ranch. Kuki’s Bowl (521-0744) is slanging rice and noodle bowls ($8) with all sorts of meats, tofu and sexy sauces like the ponzu citrus and the coconut red curry. Stuff like miso soup ($4), somen salad ($8), signature bonsai chicken ($10) and tropical mochi ($3) too. Hit kukisbowl.com to track the truck.
•Phil’s Fish Market and Eatery (633-2152) in Moss Landing just earned a big honor from BBC and its travel writer Penelope Penn, who named it the best beach restaurant on the planet, ahead of spots on Italy’s Amalfi Coast and Turks and Caicos’ Blue Hills Beach. Sounds like a good reason to celebrate with some cioppino.
•Little Napoli (626-6335) in Carmel has a new pet-friendly courtyard to go with its summer menu – and new items like the Sinatra and Jackie O pastas (both $13.50 at lunch) – baked ziti with spicy sausage, mushrooms, mozarella and pancetta with peas in a pink vodka sauce, respectively.
•“I am not young enough,” Oscar Wilde said, “to know everything.”

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