Bartender Joshua Perry describes “drunken mole” in a tone so low-key it’s as if he considers the concept normal.
Sure – everybody starts a cocktail by soaking dried chili negra and blending two different brands of amaro. And why not throw in some Granny Smith, as well? Everyday stuff. But it’s the key to the mezcal-based Holé Mole at Cultura Comida y Bebida, a fruity, smoky, bracing, kicking performance.
Yes, it is spicy. The heat drifts along in the smoke swelling from the mezcal, settling over the palate. It relents at times, as the sweet impression of pressed apples gushes like a splash of fresh cider, yet it flickers up again on the finish. There is a zing from lime, countered by a dense earthiness and herbal bite. And all of this plays out with each sip.
Holé Mole is simply captivating. Like a mole, there are layers and nuances – perhaps a dozen ingredients vying for attention. And like a mole passed down through generations, there is a delicate balance and depth.
It actually does make sense, after all.
CULTURA COMIDA Y BEBIDA, Dolores between Fifth and Sixth, Carmel. 250-7005, culturacarmel.com
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