The Aperol spritz is indeed a refreshing drink, especially at Yeast of Eden.

It’s been a couple of weeks since the New York Times dropped a hot take on the beloved Aperol spritz – an Italian aperitivo made with bitter (Aperol) and bubbly (Prosecco). Author Rebekah Peppler declared the popular summertime sipper a “bad drink,” and the internet swiftly rallied in spritz solidarity against her cocktail critique.

Here’s the thing, Peppler wasn’t entirely wrong: Make a spritz – or any cocktail – with poor-quality ingredients and the result should rightly be marched out and shamed.

At Yeast of Eden, bar manager Adam Ono makes a version worth celebrating. His orange cream Aperol spritz is a must-order. The drink starts with Aperol, of course. Ono’s spritz skips the Prosecco, instead substituting Spanish Cava. Orange cream citrate and phosphate add a bright edge to soften the bitter Aperol, and lend a bit of nostalgia for summer nights spent at a classic soda shop.

It’s all finished off with a tart bite of dehydrated blood orange for a good, enjoyable pause.

YEAST OF EDEN, Mission Street and Ocean Avenue, in Carmel Plaza, Carmel. 293-8621, yoebeer.com