The all-American burger has found a home on many unexpected restaurant menus.

The phrase “when in Rome, do as the Romans” may need to be tweaked a bit, but it still applies. Little Napoli is an Italian restaurant. Truffle gnocchi and osso buco – these are among the dishes that drew you through its doors.

Maybe there’s no equivalent saying for visits to Spain, but the gist remains the same. When you sit down at the Spanish-themed Estéban, the intention is to share paella or tapas.

There is, however, a caveat. “Things that may not look like they belong on a menu tend to be very good,” says Gian Pepe.

He is in a position to know. He grew up in the Pepe culinary dynasty started by his father that includes Little Napoli and Vesuvio in Carmel and serves as CEO of Pepe International. And in this case, he’s referring to an anomaly found at both locations, as well as at Monterey’s Estéban, the Mediterranean venue Sea Root and other restaurants: Some of the best burgers in Monterey County are served not at burger joints, but by kitchens where the American go-to is definitely out of place.

“You have to have a burger,” explains Estéban Chef Mario Garcia, pointing out that as part of Casa Munras Hotel, guests have different expectations.

Garcia does not mean to imply that burgers are on the menu to appease children or guests too timid for the restaurant’s excellent grilled octopus. The patty is a blend of chuck, short rib and Wagyu, and because of the marbling in the latter, it’s best to cut the burger in half if you don’t want to commit to finishing it in one go. The meat is husky and shows bittersweet scars from the grill. And it drips with flavor.

What truly sets it apart is the chef’s treatment of the accessories. Onions and tomatoes are touched to the grill, lending a richness to the sweet, fruity tang of the latter. Meanwhile, the deft technique ensures that purple onions do not lose their snap, while bringing out a disingenuous kindly savor with a mean streak. It may also be the only local place where the patty is topped with manchego.

At Sea Root, the kitchen team prepares two patties smashed on the flattop and allowed to caramelize in their own juices. The result elevates the rustic, hearty swagger of beef, pierced by the zing of black pepper. And the fries are almost like potato pudding under a crispy veneer.

Although it’s not on the menu, Plaza Linda in Carmel Valley will interrupt their line of enchiladas, carnitas and other Mexican favorites and turn out a burger – presented impressively on a paddle-shaped wood cutting board.

The patty is unpretentious. What stands out is the crisp lettuce and sweet tomato as they play in contrast to rugged beef. What brings it all together is a sauce that fills the in-between with an earthy, peppery chile note. Finishing the basket of fries with a margarita somehow feels right.

“Sometimes people just want a burger, no matter where they are,” Pepe observes.

The burgers available at Little Napoli and Vesuvio came about when the latter first opened its doors. There was no conversation about breaking the menu rules. They merely started a happy hour menu and decided to add a burger option. It took off.

The McSuvio starts with an in-house grind of chuck from Harris Ranch. An intense char delivers a husky, smoky and bitter charge resonating with the richness from a well-seasoned grill. All of this could pummel the palate (in the best possible way), but the onslaught is met by soothing calm of caramelized onions and draped with cambozola.

Both restaurants offer the McSuvio. There’s also a “steakhouse” burger at Vesuvio, prepared from short rib with Baker’s Bacon layered on top and weighing in at a whopping 12 ounces.

With that in mind, most diners wouldn’t divert their attention from the steaks at Whaling Station or the many notable items at the Sardine Factory in Monterey. Both, however, prepare remarkable burgers.

As for why restaurants so willingly break the bounds of regional menu expectation and dress up the American backyard staple, the answer is easy.

“Just because it’s good,” Pepe says.