“River Skimmer” Viognier from Odonata Wines is a fresh, rich sample of Monterey County terroir.

When it came time to finish their 2017 Viognier, the folks at Odonata Wines made one little mistake. Grapes from a previous vintage had come from a plot near the Bay Area. Last year, however, they located a vineyard at the southern edge of Monterey County. The problem? They forgot to update the label, which still reads “Santa Clara Valley.”

There is nothing else to complain about with Odonata’s 2017 River Skimmer. It appeals on the nose with comforting notions of banana and fresh young peach. Hints of tangerine and a spicy nip of orange zest suggest a more spirited wine waiting for an opportunity. This continues when sipped, as a blanket of creamy fruit – vaguely tropical, but with a warming spell of buttery peach – drapes the palate. Yet again, enthusiasm shows as a wealth of biting citrus peel emerges, trailing hints of spice. As it lingers, the pace picks up. Brisk fruit develops. The finish is of cidering apple.

Winemaker Denis Hoey fermented in oak before racking over to stainless steel. Otherwise, it’s all terroir.

ODONATA WINES 645 River Road, Salinas. 566-5147, odonatawines.com