Salinas Brickhouse

Knowing almost nothing about the recently opened Salinas Brickhouse Mixed Grill and Café, I was hoping for something special, something more than another passing fancy at an Oldtown location that has seen many.

Word is out owners Daniel Boudreault and Norma Tapia Boudreault, seasoned and successful local restaurateurs (Norma’s Family Restaurant) have had their nose to the grindstone since opening in August and this one, arguably their most ambitious project to date, definitely deserves a review.

My mood immediately brightened as we walked through the well-landscaped, wrought iron-gated patio with outdoor seating, which leads to the rustically elegant dining and bar area with its chic furnishings and pretty accents. Limestone and travertine flooring is enhanced by lots of warm tones, modern chandeliers and space-enhancing large wood-framed mirrors. A beautifully bound and well-designed menu was another nice detail. Matching the warm ambiance was our smartly uniformed server, who gave us an enthusiastic welcome and smiling hospitality throughout our meal.

Our server recited the two dinner specials, the oven-roasted salmon with garlic and rosemary ($14.99) and the flame-broiled ribeye steak ($17.99), then left us to explore an eclectic menu that leans heavily on American, Italian and Mexican flavors. When he came back to take our order I closed my eyes, clenched my fists under the table and said a reluctant yes to the ribeye steak special, flouting my own theory that it’s impossible to get a decent steak for under $20, as much to challenge my own belief system as to satisfy my carnivorous cravings. My wife, as usual, chose pasta, with the jumbo shrimp linguine ($16.99) winning out. Dinners include soup of the day and a house salad.

We were pleased to see both dishes attractively plated and generously portioned. When food arrives at your table it should make you smile – like that first moment when a high school kid sees his prom date. The ribeye was perfectly grilled with a slightly caramelized crust and tender and juicy medium rare interior, just as I ordered. With the luxury only running $17.99, I felt like I should be arrested. The two vegetable sides were excellent too. A savory, creamy serving of au gratin potatoes was concealed under the juicy steak and the cauliflower-carrot combo was perfectly cooked and had nice flavor, too, thanks to Norma’s own garlic-and-herb butter mixture. Later she revealed it’s the same sauce used for the grilled ciabatta bread.

My wife was in pasta heaven as she savored the five plump jumbo shrimp atop a generous portion of precisely cooked linguine, lightly coated, not soaked, in a savory buerre de vien brochette sauce – a wine/butter sauce with tomato, basil, parsley, garlic, onion and Parmesan cheese. The three other pasta choices (all sauces made from scratch) are the spaghetti and meatballs ($11.99), grilled chicken bow tie pasta with pesto ($11.99) and the grilled chicken fettucini alfredo ($13.99).

For dessert we chose the strawberry shortcake ($6.99) over the chocolate ganache ($6.99). Both are made in-house. If the ganache is even half as good as the uncommonly scrumptious shortcake, then let it be known: The Brickhouse is a place to save room for dessert.

Six salads, all priced at $9.99, as well as 13 appetizers ranging from the quesadilla ($4.99, $6.99 with grilled chicken) to the buffalo strips ($9.99) provided other tempting reasons to return. According to one apparently regular customer, the king onion rings ($6.99), battered and fried to order, are off the charts on the tastiness scale. I did manage a Monday lunch return to try one of the five gourmet sandwiches, the carnitas avocado ($9.99), made with oven-baked ciabatta, slowly simmered pork, pico de gallo and mixed greens. It comes with fries, soup or house salad and may be habit forming.

Other attractions: the burrito bar where you choose ingredients to create your own burrito, tacos, combination plate or salad. Price ranges between $6.99 for the veggies or tofu; $7.99 for the carnitas, chicken or chile verde and $8.99 for the steak. An enticing breakfast menu (9-11:30am) is also available, which includes traditional egg and meat combos (bacon, ham, sausage, steak) ranging from $9.99 to $14.99, plus breakfast burritos ($6.99-$7.99) and omelets ($9.99). Lighter choices include oatmeal and fresh fruit ($8.99), a fresh fruit cup with granola ($5.99) and smoothies ($8).

Fridays and Saturdays, after dinner time, it’s dance night. They bring in a DJ, move tables and the dining room becomes a dance floor. For weeknights, future plans include karaoke and open mic.

What you get at Salinas Brickhouse is a great experience from a well-trained staff and two smart and hardworking hands-on owners. I’m not only betting the Brickhouse is here to stay for a while, I think it’s got what it takes to become an Oldtown Salinas institution.

66 W. Alisal St., Salinas • 11:30am-9pm Mon-Sat. • Breakfast 9-11:30am Mon-Sat. DJ and dance party 9pm-1:30am Fri-Sat. • 755-7775, www.brickhousesalinas.com