Pastability’s

So the possibilities at new Pastability’s had me excited. Gino’s Family Restaurant Group, owners of Luigi’s, Bagel Corner and Angelina’s Pizza, recently opened an Italian fast-casual style counter in Salinas with a build-your-bowl method. Their experience in the industry shows itself in the shiny new spot with modern-yet-nostalgic decor, a clean environment and smiling employees.

As far as the pasta-bowl building goes, base choices are fettucine, spaghetti, rotini, penne or gluten-free. Guests can then coat them with sauces like the “baconara” (bacon, cream, Parmesan), Angelina’s pink sauce (alfredo and Napolitano mixed) or maybe the Gilroy (garlic alfredo), then add toppings ranging from spicy Italian sausage, blackened chicken and meat sauce to shrimp, smoked bacon and mixed vegetables. The price of each bowl starts at $8 and increases by $2-$3 depending on toppings (except the gluten-free, which starts at $10).

A cool, cloudy evening seemed a fitting time to experiment, but when I asked which was the most popular sauce and the cashier accidentally began saying “Michelangelo” (then corrected herself to alfredo), I figured I’d try the crowd-pleasing pre-designed Michelangelo plate ($13): blackened chicken in a creamy garlic alfredo sauce with Cajun spices. The spices were no joke: The paprika, cayenne and dried green herbs dominated so much any cheesy subtleties were lost. Objectively it was well-made – the fettucine skillfully al dente, the chicken tender – but I was hoping to taste a bit more alfredo. Nevertheless, this seemed a personal preference, so dive on in if you like Cajun cuisine.

Other established selections include the Leonardo ($12) with broccoli and sundried tomatoes in extra virgin olive oil; the Donatello ($13) with sautéed shrimp, sundried tomatoes and garlic in creamy alfredo sauce; and the Raffaele ($12) with fresh broccoli and chicken in Gilroy garlic alfredo sauce. They each come with a slice of garlic bread, which brings crunch and fragrant goodness.

On another stop, spaghetti and meatballs with the A-17 Napolitano tomato sauce wasn’t too adventurous of me, but it was tasty – the tomatoes rich with flavor; the small, sturdy meatballs lightly seasoned and just soft enough. The spaghetti itself was slightly overcooked, but the possibility exists that it cooked extra in its own extreme heat on the ride home. I had tried to take a bite in the car before driving off (Pastabilities is a pickup place only), but ended up burning my tongue.

The other build-your-own-bowl I tried combined penne and pesto with sundried tomatoes. The penne had remained a pleasingly firm texture, but the famous basil sauce lacked in brightness and quantity. As for the sundried tomatoes, they slouched in contrast to their dynamic relatives in the A-17 bowl.

So far, my experience was hit or miss. A Cajun chicken fettucine alfredo with heavy spicing and two mixed bowls that don’t blow one away. Somewhat skeptically I returned on a recent afternoon to find the outcome quite different. Rotini with their mac and cheese sauce wooed me, especially with lively, almost-crunchy steamed broccoli. Impressed, I realized that this is why everyone needs a second, or sometimes a third, chance. The rotini, spot-on, reinforced that overall, the pastas were cooked expertly. Alone, the mac and cheese sauce was delectable with its four-cheesy comfort; with broccoli it was reminiscent of a thick, welcoming broccoli cheddar soup.

The sides were also a major plus. Cheesy garlic bread ($1.50) came much like its plainer relative, and went wonderfully with a cup of artichoke bisque ($4). Spry yet subtle artichokes bounced on the palate amidst a broth of cream and tomatoes. The soup achieved just the right balance of sweet and savory, and I have high hopes for the minestrone.

Specializing in quick, casual pasta makes Pastabilty’s a unique establishment, and they have some unique perks. Lookout for deals like student discounts, and next time you’re having a party check out their catering service. Give them half an hour and they’ll prepare a large pasta pan to feed 4-6 adults (all pans start at $35.99 and increase $8.99-$10.99 depending on toppings). Even larger pans will feed 8-10, beginning at $38 and increasing $8-$14. All the pre-designed bowls come pan-size too.

Of course it wouldn’t be Italian without pan-size lasagna ($49.99-$98.99), which will be the star of any gathering with options such as Nonna Angelina’s “rustic” with meatballs, sausage, smoked bacon and spicy tomato ragout, or the blackened chicken Cajun style with alfredo and spinach. For classics they provide traditional meat and cheese and vegetarian with sautéed seasonal vegetables.

Though my first impression was a little rough, after a few visits I have a lot more faith in the family’s latest joint. If it hasn’t happened already, Pastability’s will likely become as beloved as their other restaurants, and maybe even cherished a little extra for its originality.

PASTABILITY’S 11am-8pm Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday. 11 W Acacia St., Salinas. (831) 998-7715, www.pastabilitys.net