Nuernberger’s German Sausages

The name does not say it all.

Though Nuernberger’s does have a traditional bratwurst – “made by hand, the Old World way,” according to the website – they also have a lineup of outstanding food I’d never have known about had I just heard of them on the street. And down on Franklin, nestled just outside downtown Monterey across from the Sports Center, lies a new, unsuspecting home to much more than sausages.

Not that there’s anything wrong with sausages. German brats are famous for a reason: When done right, they are really good. Nuernberger’s are done right – a salty, satisfying snap gives way to tender, savory meat dotted with enough herbs to enhance but not overwhelm. Once you’ve spotted the German flags and welcoming flower boxes, visitors shouldn’t skip a taste of their main appeal.

Behind the counter inside there are more flags, American too. One wall is painted with windows like it’s the side of a house, and a European thatched roof falls over it, with real straw bristling from the wall. An old-timey, nostalgic vibe radiates through the checkered tile floors and colorful placemats, yet looking up the place turns modern with a high, barnyard-like ceiling of white wooden posts and different kinds of giant light fixtures, hanging like baubles from above.

There are two menus: a fixed one for meats that can be eaten on a roll and another for rotating specials, such as apple pancakes or the farmer’s breakfast with eggs.

They only have four features that stay the same: bratwurst, schnitzel, frikadellen and smoked pork. Affordable pricing ($7-$14) makes it easy to get a sample of everything.

The co-owner and her thick German accent take nearly as much time in back as a full-scale restaurant, but it’s clear why: Each meal is clearly freshly prepared and cooked.

All the carnivorous options came covered in lightly-caramelized onions, and with a bread basket with sizeable rolls – hard and crusty outside, plush white inside. Condiment options include ketchup, Dijon mustard and a mellow German curry sauce.

The beautiful thing about the meats was that not one of them actually needed a bun (or a condiment for that matter): They were dynamic enough in their tastiness to stand alone.

The sausage ($6) wasn’t that off-putting white color some bratwursts are – maybe it’s just me who shudders at that – but instead a grilled brown, seared to a crisp yet super soft inside its natural casing.

When I ordered the smoked pork ($10), I imagined it was something like a shredded pulled pork sandwich. Instead I received a thick, hearty slice of ham as if it were just cut right out of a roast. The smoke was light, almost undetectable, but the meat was flavorful. My companion, not a fan of smoked food, couldn’t put it down.

The only plate that disappointed me during my visits was the one I was most excited to try: the schnitzel, a quintessential German dish. I have a weak spot for breaded meat, and the two good-size pieces of pounded breaded pork were authentically thin and crumbed beautifully without an inkling of oiliness, but seemed a little dry and flavorless. I’ll add more Dijon next time; my editor tells me the schnitzel he tried was excellent.

The frikadellen, the dish I was least excited to try, turned out to be my favorite. It was similar to a burger but thicker and rounder, and made from pork instead of beef to impart a delectably fatty richness. Much like the brat, it was crunchy on the outside and moist on the inside, while subtle seasoning let the grilled flavor shine.

The sides were outstanding, and they were not stingy.

The oh-so-comforting potatoes come hot and skillfully roasted, dressed in caramelized onions, bacon and parsley. I could have eaten them all day.

Served cold as potato salad, they were brought to life by tiny bits of ham, bell peppers and pickles and, more importantly, an excellently balanced base of mayonnaise, vinegar and mustard. It was a truly impressive concoction, and possibly the only one I’ve ever tried that could even remotely compete with my mother’s.

The mountain of sauerkraut was a warm surprise. I have been making my own at home for years, and have always eaten it room-temp or cold. Its texture was actually much more pleasing heated (pleasantly softer). I enjoyed the flavor since it was much like my own: light with salt and caraway seeds giving just a little kick to otherwise untouched cabbage.

I wanted to try at least one special, so went back one Sunday for the farmer’s breakfast. It was basically the same thing as the roasted potatoes, but with scrambled eggs and mushrooms cooked into it. Just as delicious as the former, it made for a hearty meal with the added protein.

All in all, Nuernberger’s was a total hit. With their cozy vibes, excellent cooking and various specials all day (including breakfast), this place is definitely worth a visit.

NUERNBERGER’S GERMAN SAUSAGES 398 E Franklin St., Monterey. 9am-6pm Tue-Sun. 717-4168, www.wurstfranz.com