Mo’s River Road Grill

Down on River Road, in the heart of Salinas wine country – or maybe the elbow? – a new take on a not-so-old grill lends some much needed food and drink to locals and itinerant visitors like me.

Though the original River Road Grill opened only about a year ago, following Element Wine Bar before it, it closed not long after, left some neighbors neglected, then happily reopened under new ownership three months ago. Not many restaurants exist this far south in Salinas, so to have Mo’s around is more than a little important.

The building is fresh, clean and decorated in a rustic and contemporary fashion. The service couldn’t be better – on each visit the server was attentive, courteous and friendly.

One sunny weekday right around noon, my coworker and I found ourselves needing a lunch break while running errands near Salinas.

The menu comes all-American with starters like cheesy bread with bacon, jalapeños and ranch dressing ($6.95), baked brie with honey, candied walnuts and grapes ($10.95), nachos ($7.95), potato skins ($6.95) and quesadillas ($6.95). An array of salads and tacos preface a page of heftier options like the meatball sandwich ($11.95), spinach ravioli ($12.95), Italian gnocchi ($12.95) and chicken marsala ($16.95). It all finishes with the main features from the grill like the classic cheeseburger ($10.95), rib-eye ($25.95), New York steak ($25.95) and ribs ($18.95/half rack, $26.96/full).

For those seeking more Italian comfort foods, a pizza list includes the Tuscan with mozzarella, red onions, tomatoes, olives and basil, the “wing pizza” with Sriracha chicken, blue cheese, ranch and cilantro, and some classics like four cheese, margherita and pepperoni ($8.95/small, $13.95/medium and $18.95/large).

I went with the “Midwestern,” a yummy mix of barbecued chicken, mozzarella, red onion, corn, black beans and cilantro with ranch dressing. Tex-Mex met American barbecue on this one, in a deliciously sweet-yet-savory way. It’s unusual to find beans and corn on a pizza, but the idea turned out to be delectable. The crust was bready and filling – a nice base for the different tastes that complemented each other in a pleasing way.

Fish tacos seemed like the right idea from there. Panko-crusted and fried, the tilapia came a little less flavorful than I’d hoped. Salsa verde attempted to save the dish, but something definitely seemed flat in the bed of corn, lettuce and red onion and guac. Beans on the side weren’t particularly flavorful either, but the rice had a homemade feel with chicken broth aroma and definitely enhanced the rest of the plate.

A Friday evening brought a livelier vibe, as light jazz played in the background and passersby cruised through.

The artichoke bruschetta ($6.95) brought an interesting take on classy and comfort. Thick Texas toast-style bread made a home for big, bright, ripe cherry tomatoes and tangy artichokes. Topped with balsamic reduction and cilantro, the lively combo met a friendly companion in Kung Fu Girl Riesling ($7/glass; $26/bottle), a lively, off-dry variety bursting with stone fruit.

Though the Kung Fu hailed from Washington, the wine list showed off many locals, including a creamy yet balanced Chardonnay from Folktale that I could have sipped all day ($11/glass, $36/bottle). Other regional vino includes Chloe Rosé ($8/glass, $20/bottle), Bernardus Griva Sauvignon Blanc ($10/glass, $36/bottle) and Cycles Gladiator Cabernet ($10/glass, $30/bottle). At Mo’s, fair prices for good wine abound.

Moving back to our appetites, the tri-tip salad was calling my name. A mouthwatering heap of goodies arrived on a mountain of lettuce – blue cheese, bacon bits, candied walnuts and medium rare steak. The nuts were almost sticky with sugar and I couldn’t get enough (truly, I have been craving them ever since), especially mixed with everything else. An impressive salad for sure.

An entree of salmon alla palermitana ($23.95) delivered less satisfying results next to such a great salad. The fish came slightly overcooked and lacked subtlety. A Palermo sauce of olives, capers, celery and tomatoes sounded promising but didn’t quite deliver, the asparagus was overseasoned and the mashed potato didn’t seem to be seasoned at all. It wasn’t too different from the tacos on our last visit – the recipes themselves sound great but a certain touch was missing.

I hate to end on a negative note since so much of the experience was positive. Just having this spot back is a blessing, and some of the meals – emphasis on the pizza and salad – were flat-out delicious. The wine list made me happy, the service and atmosphere brought smiles, and desserts like chocolate cake, N.Y. banana pudding and coconut bread pudding ($6-7.95) are homemade.

If I’m ever out in the countryside I wouldn’t hesitate to stop by for another go.

Mo’s River Road Grill 275 River Road E, Salinas •11:30am-9pm Tuesday-Saturday; 11:30am-8pm Sunday. Closed Monday. • 998-7564.