Menu changes bring casual sophistication to a longtime Cannery Row favorite.

Sly McFly’s on Cannery Row is more than a bar and grill.

Over 40 years, this Monterey institution has become known as the place to go for live music. But this is where dive bar meets history, where drums and guitars meet the ocean. It’s fun, it’s very casual and a convenient stop for locals and tourists alike.

With all this going on, Sly’s is not the place one thinks of when imagining quality dining. Not to say the food isn’t good for what it is, but the atmosphere has traditionally spoken louder than the typical beachside fried fish menu.

Until now.

Jimmy McDowell, Sly’s longtime bartender, worked his way up to general manager last year and has been working with head chef Danny Vera on revamping the menu – leaving the divey charm of the environment intact while uplifting bar-like dishes into trendy temptations. Deep-fried prawns, cheesy garlic bread and mozzarella sticks have been replaced with Sriracha shrimp ($13), gourmet mac-n-cheese bites ($9) and fried green beans with spicy cauliflower ($8).

While you can still choose from a selection of burgers (including the new spicy black bean veggie burger, $12), some new entree options bring Sly’s to dining heights, like 3-ounce filet medallions ($17-21) with red wine demi-glace, New York strip or top sirloin ($24 or $21) or pastas like fettuccine alfredo or spinach tortellini and shrimp ($17 or $18). Fish sandwiches have also upgraded into entrees like Alaskan salmon in a bourbon glaze ($19) and snapper in a lemon herb sauce ($17).

A weekday lunch proved to be impressive. While I felt obligated to check up on the Cannery Row fish and chips ($16), my interest in the seared ahi tuna with artichokes starter ($13) could not be subdued. Beautifully spiced and delicately seared ahi only got better drizzling it with ginger-sesame dressing and bites of grilled artichokes so enticing they could be served on their own.

With sprinkles of arugula on modern white plates, everything looked very appealing. No different for the new short-rib flatbread ($13). Caramelized onion added sweetness, blue cheese crumbles contributed rich depth, and on a home of thin crust they made friends with braised and shredded short rib.

Great crunch came on the classic fried cod alongside a pile of thick (and very addictive) fries and luxurious homemade tartar sauce. The only thing missing was something refreshing with all the hot, fried indulgence: coleslaw. I love the cooling, cabbagey stuff, so was pretty disappointed it’s been taken off the menu – especially when it’s vital in balancing out this kind of meal.

Street tacos of Pacific snapper ($10)worked nicely with chopped onion and cilantro; I only wished there was a warning about the spiciness of the side salsa.

At this oldie-but-goodie, things are getting better with age. While classic rock still lingers on the speakers and old cars decorate the wooden walls, changes in the menu are keeping Sly’s hip. And good food? Well, it’s timeless.

SLY MCFLY’S 700 Cannery Row, Monterey •11am-2am daily •(831) 649-8050, slymcflysmonterey.com