Il Tegamino

On my first visit to Carmel’s new Italian restaurant Il Tegamino, now three months open, owner/operator Giuseppe Panzuto was cheerfully greeting, seating, wine pairing, serving, bussing, charming and treating patrons like old friends. Brother Salvatore was putting out food that looks and tastes like it’s made by someone’s mother. Namely, his.

A rainy Monday evening and the place was packed and buzzing. All nine two-seat tables were occupied in the tiny dining room, with a lively party of eight seated in the center. Giuseppe warmly welcomed us and put us on the waiting list. Thirty minutes. Il Tegamino takes no reservations except for group buyouts.

Weather permitting, there’s seating for about 30 more in the pretty back courtyard, and four or so more in front where we waited with six others, chatting and huddling under an overhang. Enthusiastic thumbs up came from patrons when they filed out, swearing it was worth the wait.

We were seated, elbow to elbow, able to talk low or share a conversation. We did a little of both. The place has a high-spirited, communal feel.

We had ample time to peruse the menu while enjoying a basket of ciabatta and a very savory tapenade of thinly sliced zucchini, olive oil, garlic, red pepper flake, mint and balsamic vinegar. Once appetizers and entrees were decided upon, I left wine pairing up to Panzuto.

We started with two antipasti. First, il polpo con velutata di patate ($15) – sauteed octopus with potato-olive oil cream and cherry tomato. Based on my years in Spain, where octopus rules, I’d say Il Tegamino does it about as well as it can be done. Tenderness is the key. They nailed it. Another very worthy palate primer was the parmigiana di zucchine($12) – thinly sliced zucchini layered with mozzarella, tomatoes, Parmesan and basil.

Since wine is not my wife’s cup of tea – tea is – I would be going it alone. Fortunately there’s a selection of about 10 wines by the glass ($8-$13). During appetizers Panzuto surprised me with a refreshing, slightly sweet, slightly sparkling Lambrusco Mantovano ($12). For my very meaty entrée he scored big again with a Chianti Toscolo ($10). Panzuto, a certified sommelier who directed wine at places like the Ritz Carlton Dana Point and Cantinetta Luca in Carmel, knows pairings. Bottles, from mostly Italian appellations interspersed with a few locals, range from $31 to $70. Four bottled beers made the cut ($6-$8): two local crafts, one semi-local and one imported lager, Moretti ($6).

One of the chalkboard specials was the pesto-encrusted halibut ($28) caught out of Monterey Bay by Giuseppe himself the day before. Moist, delicate and as fresh as can be, it came with a broccolini garlic sauté topped with pine nuts and golden raisins. Mmmazing.

Grigliata mista con contorni ($35) was our other choice. A mixed grill of homemade sausage, lamb chops and New York strip with a choice of two contorni (side dishes). My steak was a smidgen past medium-rare but plenty tender and juicy with a well-seared crust. The sausage was mildly spiced, softly textured and caramelized outside.

As one of the included sides I chose patate al forno ($7 a la carte), or roasted potatoes with rosemary and thyme. Tender and fluffy inside with a perfect golden crust. The other:melanzane alla sorrentina ($7 a la carte) – sauteed eggplant with tomato, Parmesan cheese, garlic, basil and olive oil. A perfect complement to sauce up the plain grilled meats.

Chef Salvatore keeps his repertoire manageable and the quality high with a small number of starters and second courses, among them the risotto al profumo di limone ($16, arborio rice, Parmesan cheese and lemon zest) and the housemade gnocchi di agerola ($19, tomato sauce, smoked mozzarella, Parmesan and basil). The two other second courses: cotoletta di maiale ($19), breaded pork loin scallopini, and pollo ai fagioli ($23), braised Mary’s free-range chicken with cannellini beans, lemon, garlic and thyme. Comes with a choice of one side.

For decades the brothers dreamed of opening a place where they could share the flavors they remember growing up with in Naples, Italy – dishes their mother Rita Panzuto made for them, like lasagna di carnevale ($23), for Easter or whenever mom felt like making it. She died three years ago; this new restaurant is an homage. “She always wanted us to do something together,” Giuseppe says. A couple of decades ago the brothers ran their own Italian tapas/wine bar in Naples. Now they’re reunited and the dream has materialized in a quaint and cozy place tucked away just off Ocean Avenue in the Court of the Golden Bough.

The checklist is full: superb food, heartfelt service, charming atmosphere and much on the menu I still want to try. Next time it will be the polpetti (meatballs), six kinds ($6-$8) – beef, pork, tuna, crab, cauliflower or mushroom – served with four dipping sauces (sample all for $20). Il Tegamino is a gem. I loved the entire experience so much I plan to make it a monthly event.

IL TEGAMINO Ocean Avenue between Lincoln and Monteverde • 5-9pm Thu-Tue, closed Wed. • 250-5790, www.iltegamino.com.