Dos Victorias Mexican Food

The taqueria that replaced the Papa Chevo’s on the north side of Cannery Row may have a new name, but it serves much of the same sturdy fare – with some notable additions.

In so doing, Dos Victorias Mexican Food fills the void left by Papa C’s by providing cheap Mexican staples with speedy service.

Its extensive menu features hits from the past menu like the California chicken burrito ($6.49) and asada fries ($8.29). That’s partly because married couple Agustin and Maria Arreola, who own the spot with their daughter Victoria, formally managed the popular Papa Chevo’s in Marina. They bought the Cannery Row location in 2015 but didn’t brandish the new name until early this year.

“We wanted the pride of making it with our own name,” Agustin says.

That pays tribute to two important women for Agustin, his mother and daughter, who share the same name.

On my first visit a buzz came from behind the counter as a cook used an electric egg beater to whip a batch of batter for chile rellenos ($4.99).

A laminated piece of paper by the register boasted lengua (tongue) and barbacoa (slow-cooked beef) specials. I couldn’t resist.

The lengua taco ($2.49) showcased beef tongue tender enough to make the tough muscle easily enjoyable. The moist pieces of lengua were melt-in-your-mouth soft and lacked any of the mushy or grainy consistency that can haunt the meat when it’s overcooked. Cilantro and a green salsa packed with diced white onions complemented the meaty morsels nicely.

Two sopes de pollo asado ($7.49), however, didn’t meet the same benchmark for texture. A sope is a circular foundation of fried corn masa topped with refried beans, tomatoes, avocado, lettuce and crumbles of queso fresco. My sopes came heavy on the crispness and too light on fluffiness. After a few minutes of letting the sope stand by while I finished my taco, it seemed like it hardened all the way through. My plastic fork and knife struggled to cut a piece. Aside from the masa foundation, though, other ingredients were enjoyable. Thepollo asada (or grilled chicken), which is $1 more than the regular shredded chicken mixed with green peppers and tomatoes, provided savory flavor able to stand out from the starchy sope base.

Washing down my meal with a pleasantly sweet horchata ($2.49), I wondered why the restaurant doesn’t have any silverware for guests dining in. Most dishes are served on paper plates with plastic utensils while burritos and orders of tortillas are wrapped in paper. It makes the ambiance more fast food than it has to be.

I visited again on a Monday, slightly earlier in the afternoon, and saw it significantly more busy. In a rush to make it to class, my friend and I ordered to-go and received our three items within 10 minutes – and discovered it was four items since the cook gave us a complimentary barbacoa taco ($2.49) for adding onion to another taco when asked not too. Like the lengua, the barbacoa delivered a well-cooked portion of meat complemented by simple toppings. The shredded beef soaked in a mixture of its juices and spices had some heat, overshadowing any complex flavor, but furnished notable richness.

It was the adovada, which I had in a burrito ($6.49), that ultimately made my cut for most unique and flavorful find at Dos Victorias. Adovada is similar to al pastor in that it’s pieces of marinated pork, but in this case it is grilled (instead of cooked on a rotating spit) and comes in a sauce that’s both tangy and spicy. That thick, almost paste-like sauce pairs well with generous helpings of chunky guacamole and fresh pico de gallo wrapped in a flour tortilla.

There are plenty of lighter and less savory options that don’t skimp on taste. The fish taco ($2.75) features tilapia in an incredibly crunchy batter topped with lettuce and pico de gallo. The fish itself isn’t bursting with flavor but its stellar breading, crisp vegetables and some welcome heat from the pico de gallo’s pieces of jalapeño make it a dynamic few bites.

On the simpler side, it doesn’t get more straightforward than the bean tostada ($3.49). A smooth layer of silky beans cover a crisp tostada strong enough to support the weighty beans and toppings of lettuce and shredded cheese.

Combination plates cater to bigger appetites but remain within bargain territory. A standout among these sizable meals – that each come with ample sides of rice and beans – is the shrimp ranchero ($10.49). The shrimp are cooked in a green tomatillo-based salsa with chunks of tomato and cilantro, earning points for visual appeal, but it’s the careful cooking that is really stellar. Each shrimp absorbs the citrusy, mildly-hot salsa.

The biggest distinction from the past comes in the form of a super sweet fried treat. The funnel cake ($6.49), topped with strawberries and powdered sugar, is the sole desert offered. It may not be reflective of the owners’ two decades worth of experience in making Mexican food, but it is a fun way to wrap a meal.

DOS VICTORIAS MEXICAN FOOD 299 Cannery Row., Monterey. 7am-10pm Mon-Wed and 7am-11pm Thu-Sun. 372-7298, dosvics.com