California Market at Pacific’s Edge Hyatt Carmel Highlands

From the entrance alone, one can guess that California Market at Pacific’s Edge is going to be something special. It begins with a soul-stirring cliff drive overlooking the ocean, leading to a stairway laden with beautiful greenery and even a small waterfall. Inside, a welcoming hallway with an expansive modern lounge/art gallery to the right brings one down to a world-class ocean view from the dining room’s giant new glass walls.

California Market only exists at lunchtime; for dinner the restaurant is still Pacific’s Edge. The Market used to be downstairs, but has moved on up since the big renovation of the restaurant and the hotel with its 100th anniversary last year. With the new walls and breathtaking glass deck, this spot deserves to be used as much as possible.

Not surprisingly, it was pretty busy even for a Thursday lunch. On a clear day with bright blue skies and calm seas, I couldn’t imagine a more beautiful place for an escape.

The question came, will the food match the view? The answer: a solid yes.

An indulgent starter beckoned in the form of crab and lobster spring rolls ($16). Four rolls were gone in a flash, as they were addictively tasty, especially dipped in sweet housemade Thai chili sauce. Crab and lobster meat found a complementary partner in a fresh seaweed salad, which lent a cooling property to the heat of the sweet and savory rolls. I would eat that salad daily if I could.

A different kind of salad brought another dose of freshness. The seared ahi salad ($20) involves a good-sized bowl of romaine and tatsoi (or mustard spinach) lettuces flanked with nicely peppered and very lightly cooked tuna and other thoughtful ingredients. Enoki mushrooms and snappy green beans added extra texture, while canned mandarins added just the right touch of sweetness to offset the refreshing pickled ginger vinaigrette. Among other tempting greens were the Point Reyes blue cheese salad with pears, candied pecans and bacon ranch dressing ($16) and the “Monterey salad” ($18) with shrimp, Monterey jack cheese, cucumber, avocado, tomatoes and pickled onions.

Most of the large plates were sandwiches, the most tempting of which was the Pacific halibut sandwich ($22). Two halves of a large, soft white roll cushioned exquisitely cooked, melt-in-your-mouth fish accompanied by lettuce, tomato and a lightly spiced remoulade. The lightness of the toppings let the halibut remain center stage, while yummy, pillowy fries played a supporting role. Other entrees include seafood cioppino ($25), beer-battered local-catch fish tacos ($21) and a burger ($18).

Though stuffed and satisfied, we couldn’t resist some housemade ice-cream and sorbet. All desserts are homemade, and despite the extremely enticing bittersweet chocolate mousse cake and vanilla crème brulée (both $8), the sun on our skin was a nudge for something cold. In choose-your-own fashion, three scoops that sounded best were strawberry ice cream and guava and mango sorbets ($8), and they couldn’t have been more delicious. Decorated with fresh strawberries and blueberries, each flavor jumped on the palate so that the taste of each fruit came out in pronounced perfection.

More temptation came from the wine list. French rosé ($11/glass) and classics like Veuve Cliquot Champagne ($95/bottle; $45/half bottle) jumped out, along with some whites like Rombauer Chardonnay ($18/glass) and Dr. Loosen Bros Riesling ($10/glass). Intriguing reds like Mansfield Dunne Pinot Noir ($16/glass) and Andrew Lane Cabernet ($18/glass) also caught the eye.

For earlier drinks and a hearty breakfast, brunch is served all day Saturday and Sunday from 7am-3:30pm and features “Point Lobos Benedict” with Dungeness crab and avocado ($19), cinnamon French toast with berries and crushed pecans ($14) and pancakes with bananas and warm nutella ($14).

Dinnertime is just as seductive (especially with a good sunset), when California Market becomes Pacific’s Edge. Chad Minton is executive chef for both, and his dinner menu delivers interesting, sustainable fare like South Pacific bouillabaisse with local halibut ($46), duck with homemade molé ($38), aged ribeye with chimichurri ($56) and homemade pasta specials that rotate daily.

During dinner hundreds of wines are available by bottle, and plenty by the glass too. So much wine exists, in fact, that a table of contents for different types and regions is needed. Almost 10 dessert wines can be found on the sweets menu.

Not to be ignored is the remarkably unique (and vegan!) plant-based tasting menu. For $50 ($80 with wine pairings), it includes items like almond yogurt with root vegetables, pistachios and pomegranate seeds, and smoked king trumpet mushrooms with charred veggies and coconut squash broth.

Whether daytime or night, California Market or Pacific’s Edge, memorable meals await those in the know at this gem of a location – one almost as shiny as the ocean it overlooks.

California Market at Pacific’s Edge Hyatt Carmel Highlands 120 Highlands Drive, Carmel Highlands. • Breakfast 7am-11am; lunch 11:30am-3:30pm; dinner 5:30-9pm. • 622-5445, highlandsinn.hyatt.com