Birriería & Restaurant estilo Coalcomán

A Mexican asking what birria is would be like a gringo asking, what’s a hamburger? It’s a traditional dish often reserved for occasions like Christmas, weddings, first communions and Sunday hangovers. Most Mexican restaurants serve it weekends only, if at all. But in Castroville, where the old Central Texan Barbecue was, there’s a new restaurant that serves it daily. It’s their specialty, as the name implies – translated, it means “birria joint, Coalcomán-style,” with Coalcomán being a region in southwest Michoacán, Mexico.

It’s not so complicated, but its proper prep and long cooking time make it a logistical challenge for daily restaurant-sized batches, which is a main reason why this birriería is one of the few places around, if not the only, that serves it daily.

Traditionally this spicy stew – pronounced BEE-rree – ah; trill the double-r if you dare – is made with goat meat. Beef, pork and lamb are other popular choices. Thousands of versions exist. But what makes birria birria is slow-cooking the meat in an oven (3-4 hours), in a tightly covered pot on a steaming rack. Result: a tender, succulent piece of meat sitting above a rich, flavorful consommé.

Another prerequisite: chili peppers. Choice depends on desired heat: pasillas, guajillos, anchos, serranos, cascabel, or any combination. Other ingredients and their amounts can vary – tomato, tomatillo, cumin, oregano, thyme, bay leaf, pepper, ginger, garlic, sugar, cinnamon.

Basic condiments like chopped onion, cilantro, lime and hot sauce add flavor and texture to the meat and consommé. Corn tortillas are part of the feast too.

I recruited a friend, fellow foodie and native of Mexico to be my expert birria bud. Between us, we ordered the birria de chivo con consome and handmade tortillas ($14), enchiladas con pollo ($9.50) and a variety of four tacos ($2 each).

He appreciated the juicy tenderness of the goat meat and the fact that it was cleaned of fat and gristle. That and the handmade corn tortillas made him a happy man.

His assessment of the enchiladas? A little more time on the flat grill would bring out a more toasted corn flavor in the tortillas. The tacos brought an emphatic thumbs up.

Birria de res ($9.50) is available for those who prefer beef (in consommé, $11.50). Rounding out the menu are other favorites like carnitas ($7) and chile verde ($10), both with rice and beans; on weekends, menudo ($7) and pozole ($6). All-day breakfast dishes include machaca platillo ($10), a scrambled egg and cured meat (carne seca) dish with a red sauce, rice and beans;chilaquiles platillo ($8.50); and chorizo with eggs ($7).

I nipped in for a quick chile relleno ($10.50) one day. This one had me wondering if the firmness of the pepper was planned or if it was underdone. Compensating for that was the sweet tang and spice of the dish and the handmade tortillas, beans and rice.

Not a lot of fish and seafood choices: camarones a la diabla ($15), tilapia dorada ($11.50), campechana ($14), coctel de camaron ($12), tostadas de camaron ($4.50) and ceviche ($3.50). That’s OK. Keep your eye on the birria. Specialization can be a good thing.

The Birriería Coalcomán has “family restaurant” written all over it. No greeter, no wait to be seated sign, and you’ll probably come in through the side door because that’s where the parking is. Walk in, sit where you want. An informal vibe but no shortage of smiles and good energy from the young dining room staff.

Bellies full, bill paid, crowd thinned out, we were able to chat with our server Luis Moreno, who turned out to be the manager, and whose mom and dad, Cecilia and Carlos, own the place. He told us of how his mother learned to make birria in Michoacán, where her parents had a business selling it.

Luis grew up in Prunedale, where Cecilia worked in a bakery for many years. Carlos was a construction worker. Around 2009, Cecilia decided to branch out and started selling birria in a Watsonville flea market. A year later, she set up another booth in Santa Clara.

After six years at the flea markets, Cecilia and Carlos thought it was time to look for a restaurant. When Central Texan BBQ closed in October after 30 years, the Morenos bought the building and, thanks to Carlos’ construction experience, did much-needed renovations. By early March it was ready for a soft opening.

Business seems to be good. According to Luis, between the restaurant, flea markets and catering gigs, they sell about 1,500 pounds of goat, beef and lamb per week. Plans are to add lambbirria too.

I tried the birria one more time to confirm my previous impression. Regardless of how grandma did it, I know when I like tastes and textures. When done right, slow cooked meat dishes like carnitas, short ribs, lamb shank, osso bucco or beef stew are among my favorites. I can add birria to that list.

Birriería & Restaurant estilo Coalcomán • 10500 Merritt St., Castroville. • 10:30am-9pm Mon-Fri; 8am-9pm Sat; 8am-8pm Sun. • 453-7060.