Aabha Indian Cuisine

Thinking of Indian food brings to mind the dank smell of spices in the air and affordable, hole-in-the-wall joints with a menu you can rely on recognizing. Not entirely so at new Aabha Indian Cuisine in Carmel, which is refreshingly upscale for a type of food that’s often quick and predictable.

The first view is of a flowing stone water fountain and smiles at the host stand, through a flowery patio into the entry of the former Bahama Billy’s. The tastefully decorated establishment brings to mind something else besides hole-in-the-wall: fine dining. The menu, meanwhile, throws in all sorts of atypical Indian fare, including salmon tikka masala ($19), mango scallops ($20) and prawn pineapple tikka ($20). Creative sides include avocado masala rice ($6) and kashmiri naan stuffed with dates and coconut ($4).

The scene was busy for a rainy Monday night, and we decided to get cozy with drinks: something dry, something sweet, neither normal for Indian drink menus. A Chopin vodka martini ($15) with a lemon rind twist was balanced by a sugary Mai Tai ($9) of Bacardi, Triple Sec and the tropical touch of pineapple-orange juice. The cocktails were strong, exactly how we wanted them.

Also pretty strong – in flavor, and in the most delicious way – was the cucumber raita ($3). A thick yogurt-based cream dip with cumin and cucumbers made a heavenly match with soft garlic-rosemary naan, and an even better match with cheese-basil naan, a warm, gooey yet thin sandwich lighted dotted with dried herbs.

The wet weather welcomed a few bowls of warming curry, some rogan josh lamb and chicken tikka masala (both $17) to see how the basics are covered (brownie points: all chicken is free range and the menu is 90-percent gluten-free). Chef-owner Bhupender Singh did not disappoint, which makes sense given his resume: He trained in French and Italian cooking, learned from top chefs at Bukhara restaurant in New Delhi (rated by Restaurant magazine as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world) and has co-owned restaurants such as Delhi Belly in Sonoma and Ambrosia in Monterey.

Smooth and buttery tomato sauce swam around big chunks of chicken breast in the tikka masala; the chicken itself seemed just right, and went better with some simple but yummy basmati rice. The tender lamb fell apart easily in the rich tomato sauce with a hint of spice (I asked for it to be on the milder side, and it came out how I hoped it would).

The only dish that seemed a little off its game was the tandoori boti lamb kebab ($18). Served on a fun and modern steel dish lit from underneath with a tealight, the kebab itself seemed plain. The sides of sauteed red onion and cabbage didn’t quite match the meat, or at least required something creamy to make their flavors mesh (the cucumber raita helped). I expected the lamb to be as soft as the one in my curry, but it was slightly overcooked, a touch tough. Still, the chili, ginger and garam masala delivered a punch of flavor, so I came back for more.

A mellow happy hour one afternoon around 4pm boasted deals on drinks including draft beer, wine, martinis and well drinks for $5; and snacks of shrimp peri-peri, samosas, tandoori momos and lamb and goat cheese kebabs ranging from $5-$8 (3-5pm Mon-Sat). The momos ($7) – previously a mystery to me – were yummy little pastries of minced and spiced chicken. The lamb ($7) came in a lightly fried batter like a meatball, with savory, creamy goat cheese resting openly in the center.

Off HH but worth a taste is the unusual avocado-pomegranate chaat, a chilled cake of avocado, potatoes, chickpeas and pomegranate seeds sprinkled with tiny pieces of wheat crisps and dressed in yogurt and tamarind ($8). Though it took a minute to grow on me, once it did I was dipping in the recommended papadum (lentil crackers) and smothering it all with extra tamarind (because everything is better with tamarind).

A Friday lunch proved nearly packed for the buffet ($12.95). A long, tempting table of culinary surprises was the way to go, though the regular menu was also available. The options went from chutneys and dressings for arugula, fruit and vegetables to a multitude of vegetarian or chicken options (variety-seekers rest assured: the buffet menu changes daily). The rice came in the form of navratan pulao, which means it came mildly spiced and had a light addition of vegetables like bell peppers, carrots and onions. An additional “side” included aloo tikka – falafel-sized (and -colored) fried potato balls – that brought a gentle crunch and an intense pop of flavor. The fresh warm naan brought to the table also helped.

Yellow lentil dal made a pleasing foundation, while sauteed green beans showed off an unexpected chili heat and seemed to complement everything. The matar paneer quietly expressed a soft, traditional Indian cheese in creamy tomato sauce with garam masala, but I had to save room for the spicy kadhai chicken and kadi pakora (vegetable fritter curry) too. I always find the orange look of tandoori chicken appetizing and, like everything else at Aabha so far, it tasted as good as it looked.

AABHA INDIAN CUISINE 3690 The Barnyard, Carmel •11:30am-9pm daily • 250-5940, www.aabhaindian.com