Presidio Burger

Rick Persons >> Duffy’s Tavern

Long before anyone thought to add foie gras, bacon jam or grilled pineapple to hamburger, there was just a simple sandwich – a ground beef patty, maybe a couple of condiments and some white bread.

The Presidio Burger at Duffy’s Tavern is that burger. Through the stocky patty of ground beef, the basic salt and pepper seasoning and the rugged scar scoured by the grill it tells of roadside diners and worn, blackened flattops. And the toppings are rudimentary – lettuce, tomato, onion and a few pickle slices. There is nothing to interfere with that husky character of beef and the bittersweet hashtag-shaped char.

It’s a throwback burger, so change that to pound-sign-shaped char.

A hoarse crackle of pepper brings depth to the grilled savor and an earthiness to the onion, while the dusting of salt feeds into the briny tang from the pickle. Contrast the bright chirp of tomato against the soft and mellow cushion of a sesame seed bun and you have America on a bun, a place we probably never should have left behind.

When you think about it, nostalgia never tasted so good.

DUFFY’S TAVERN, 282 High St., Monterey. 644-9811.