EDIBLE: To toast 20 years, Montrio Bistro adds outdoor patio, new menu.

The first new thing to hit eaters’ eyes will be the new bistro patio (“parklet” among the promotional types) encircled by classy and curvy fences and set off by graceful street lamps shedding light and dangling flower baskets.

The cast-iron fencing and posts, which will be finished June 10, are forged with a finish that welcomes just enough rust to look like they’ve been there for decades.

Montrio Bistro (648-8880) has, in fact, occupied the old brick firehouse on Calle Principal in downtown Monterey for decades, as in two. But it’s done so in such a way, conjuring the almighty alchemy of setting, service and epicuria, that its liveliness gives it the feel of a popular new joint. Simultaneously, its lasting presence as an institution, which inspires Weekly readers to occasionally vote it Best Restaurant in Monterey and frequently Best Small Plates and Best Desserts, allow for the sense that it could be celebrating 40 or 50 years. So the choice in metal – new but maturing, fresh but seemingly there forever – is appropriate.

Other things to strike the eyes are new uniforms and a new menu that unfolds from wines by the glass (the Wente Chard is a nice value at $10) to well-curated craft beer (including FirestoneOpal on draft) to a deep lineup of bites, medium plates and entrées arranged in such a way as to not overwhelm – at least to start.

The first thing to hit eaters’ lips, if they’re wise (and like spirits), should be the Saving Private Ryan ($12) by ahead-of-his-era-barkeep Anthony Vitacca. (The crisp house-filtered water deserves love, too, for its light water – and wallet-footprint, compared to fancy bottled options.)

This soldier represents a revelation that starts with smoked ice. Yes, smoked. Apparently a big block of ice hangs with Montrio exec chef’s own Baker’s bacon at Oakland’s Prime Smoked Meats as the pork is double smoked. The ice melts, then ships down the 880 and 101 to Monterey. Once recast into plus-sized cubes, it joins bourbon Vitacca infused with brown butter, walnut liqueur and bitters he crafts himself from chicory and pecans. It makes for a complex and comforting cocktail, and one of 14 mad-scientist tastes like the Monkeying Around with banana-infused Irish whiskey ($11) and the Old Gringo with pineapple-chipotle silver tequila ($12).

Next thing to touch the tastebuds: Exec Chef Tony Baker’s new cheese-and-bacon popcorn ($4.50), cleverly served with chopsticks. Then maybe another “bite” from the lineup of eight – scallop crudo with beet ginger panna cotta ($6.50) smoked wild salmon ($7) or the bacon-wrapped prawns ($7), which remain from the last menu to satisfy their rabid following.

Medium plates include a succulent buttermilk quail over roasted sunchokes ($11.50) and back bacon with local asparagus and burrata ($12). Baker dished us both on a menu tasting, to rave response. An additional indulgence that plunged into over-the-top decadence: Benton’s hickory-smoked ham with Honey Bunches of Oats-crusted ricotta fritters and honey butter, as if the additional richness was necessary. Whoa.

The dozen medium plates also include Moon Bay oysters (three for $9), Pacific Mussels with coconut-red-curry broth ($14), a fire-roasted artichoke ($10.50) and seared scallops with black pudding and applesauce ($12).

Baker’s abiding affection for meats drives much of the menu, and even more of the entreés – think bacon chop with crispy mac ’n’ cheese and jalapeño-honey gastrique ($29), braised prime boneless beef short with whipped potatoes, morels and peas ($33) and roast duck breast with cornbread stuffing ($29).

One of the better burgers in the area remains, now trumped to $22 via Kobe beef, Baker’s back bacon and a fried egg. Monterey Bay salmon comes with citrus risotto and baked tomatoes ($28). Baker laid a meat-lover’s dream on us in the prime rib-eye steak, served family-style with baked tomatoes, roasted potatoes and kale-Brussels sprout hybrids called kalettes. A half order proved too much for three of us after the ample prelude; different choice finds will occupy that meaty “Baker’s Delight” slot on the menu and run upwards of $100 for 40 hefty ounces.

As satisfying as the burliness can be, I’d still love more greenery than the kale salad with thyme caramel and pistachio ($10) and the grilled gem lettuce-white anchovy Ceasar ($11). The sides do offer some respite, with superb crispy kalettes ($9), spiced French beans ($7), grilled asparagus ($8), shaved cauliflower with pine nuts ($7) and sweet potatoes with almonds and maple yogurt ($7). There’s still what Baker calls a “gut bomb” on the sides menu too, with the loaded bacon lardon poutine ($12). Similarly, the vegetarian entrée option(s) could be greater. For now there’s just a spendy capellini pasta with fresh and house-dried tomatoes ($18).

Wednesday, June 10, marks the official christening of the new parklet and celebrates its pet-friendliness with a Peace of Mind Dog Rescue and Animal Friends Rescue Project benefit ($25; 100 percent of ticket goes to POMDR and AFRP). Along with the canines, the event includes samples of Baker’s new plates, fine wines, tastes of Vitacca’s insane creations and a live broadcast from the community radio angels of KRML.

In short, a birthday party, and a locally owned restaurant, to believe in.

QUICKBITES

• Zum Sushi (372-8700) opened this week on P.G.’s Central Avenue, in the former Thai Bistro II spot, with maki like the lighthouse roll ($13): avocado, cucumber, crab, shrimp tempura and cream cheese on the inside, crab meat, tempura crunchies and “goodie” sauce on top.

• Beer: Now appearing on p. 20.

• Carmel Valley’s getting another tasting room. Jarman opens this weekend or early next week next to Wills Fargo (at 18 W. Carmel Valley Road) with some of the very best grapes Holman Ranch has going into Pinots and Chards, and a reinvented tasting experience ($25).

• Junior chefs and culinary pros including Tony Baker, Todd Fisher and Colin Moody team up in a Food Fight using mystery baskets of ingredients to raise funds for the Cherish Receiving Center, a haven for youth removed from abusive homes. Guests enjoy appetizers and beer and wine tastings. It all goes down 1:30-5:30pm Sunday, June 14, at Portola Plaza ($50, www.aspiranet.org/foodfight).

• Personal Chef Crystal dropped sesame salmon over soba noodles by the office. Convenience never tasted so good. Check out www.chefcrystal.com for how she preps high-grade grub for busy people to have ready in minutes.

• Paul Wetterau is out as director of ops at Casanova in Carmel.

• Wills Fargo brings in Mad Otter Ale to provide a pairing for lunch on the patio noon-2pm Saturday, June 13. $1 from each meal goes to Friends of the Sea Otter ($25+, reservations recommended, 659-2774).

• The East Alisal farmers market re-opens for the season Tuesday, June 9, with a chance to win a bag of produce. Tuesdays 11am-4pm in the WIC parking lot at 632 East Alisal St.

• New Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar Chef De Cuisine Nicole Heaney brings her progressive culinary expertise from the Enchantment Resort in Sedona.

• Aubergine hosts four-course Terroir dinner with wine pairings Tuesday, June 9. First seating 6pm. Theme: Liquid farm ($110, 624-8578).

• French painter and poet Francis Picabia: “Our heads are round so our thoughts can change direction.”