EDIBLE: Finding comfort in high calories amid chaos.

One of Big Sur’s key bridges is breaking. Highway 1 down the South Coast isn’t in much better shape. Last weekend parts of Salinas were better suited for kayaks than Cadillacs. Now Cachagua is cut off too. Then there’s this: According to meticulous accounting by The Washington Post, the president of the U.S. lied to or misled the country 123 times – in the first 33 days – and that’s one of his less nuclear sins (p. 21).

Fortunately there are beacons of hope and devices of comfort. The beacons of hope include local leaders like Sen. Bill Monning and protests like #daywithoutimmigrants, which rallied dozens of tight-knit local restaurants Feb. 9. The comforts include… comfort food.

That thought helped send me on a mission to Moss Landing, and one of my favorite places when the rains come. I borrowed the idea from tastemaker Matt Shea, vineyard manager at Marinus: When it gets wet and stormy, he goes north for warm and soothing at Phil’s Fish Market & Eatery (633-2152).

Last week, the live band was jamming, the affordable wines were flowing and the fresh shellfish was flying. Most importantly, the cioppino was steaming, with its sublime melange of fresh-catch fish, Dungeness crab, mussels, littleneck clams, squid ringlets and tender scallops – and a rich broth of tomato, white wine, butter, garlic, saffron and other spices that’s superior than the sum of its parts. Two discoveries came before and after the “small” bowl ($24.95 with salad and garlic bread), which was perfect for two: the butter-and-Champagne sauteed oysters ($14.95/four) and the fact you can take leftover wine to go and (off the record) smuggle it to the moonlit beach.

The storms locally and nationally are forecast to continue, so my comfort tour has too. It includes quizzing colleagues and crawling over notes for a range of ideas. (This list isn’t meant to be exhaustive. It’s meant to furnish some distraction – and a lot of fried chicken, it turns out. I’d love your ideas. The most poetic and/or impassioned tribute sent to edible@mcweekly.com wins a free lunch.)

Fittingly enough, one of the local ambassadors for indulgent food celebrates a partnership with Seaside VFW on Fremont Boulevard noon-6pm Friday, Feb. 24. “Fancy” Nancy Black Hawkins of new Kayter2You (521-8722) will sling “crazy eight fish plates” ($8), whole peach cobblers ($10), $5 margaritas and free popcorn. She’ll continue there weekends with things like “hood” burgers, chicken “wangs and thangs,” “winky dinky dogs” (a hot dog and hot link plate with chili, onions and more), and chicken and waffles (all $8-$10).

Another limited-time Seaside spot makes this working list: Ferdi’s Creole Restaurant on Broadway (394-2244) only does lunch, but is loaded with things like chocolate-peanut butter shakes, gumbo, blackened chicken, 2-foot hoagies, jambalaya and the Friday-only Big Easy burger, which is top five locally (from under $10).

Peter B’s Brewpub (649-2699) is fast developing into a comfort food capital thanks to still-relatively-new Exec Chef Danny Abruzzesse. Think Bamma po’ boys, brisket Cubans ($14 each) and new indulgent chalkboard specials. Under Exec Chef Mikey Adams’ watch Restaurant 1833 (643-1833) has leaned downhome in tasty ways, with items like artichoke “frybread” ($19) and the Korean barbecue tri tip ($30). He took away the Oaxacan cheesesticks and unbeatable artichoke dip (frowny face) but kept the belly bomber short-rib goulash ($29). Crema Pacific Grove (324-0347) specializes in big and rich stuff like bacon-cheddar biscuits and gravy ($12) and chicken-fried steak and eggs ($12) but the clincher is the buttermilk fried chicken and Belgian waffle with spicy sausage gravy ($14).

Even though guilty food master Todd Fisher has slimmed down and is moving on, his former Tarpy’s Roadhouse (647-1444) is still a yum hub thanks to things like shrimp and grits ($22), meatloaf ($19) and Sriracha-glazed ribs ($13). Its sibling spot Montrio Bistro (648-8880) has one of the purest mac ‘n’ cheeses in the land ($7), 48-hour bacon with bacon-almond butter ($12) and over-the-top chunky bacon poutine ($12.50). Not to be outdone, fellow sibling Rio Grill (625-5436) and Chef Cy Yontz has their own motherlode of carnitas omelets ($13.95), waffle sandwiches ($13.50) and short-rib hash ($15).

It’s a lot to pack in. And there’s more. Bon Ton L’Roy’s Lighthouse Smokehouse (375-6958) comes stacked with barbecue plates ($14.75) and gooey Reuben sandwiches ($12.50). Christopher’s on Lincoln (626-8000) does fried green tomatoes ($8). Breakfast Club (394-3238) does French toast made from Paris Bakery cinnamon rolls ($10.81); Holly’s Lighthouse Cafe (372-7006) puts carrot cake in her pancakes ($8.95). la Balena (250-6295) solves fried chicken fixes for the gluten-free set with arborio rice flour Sundays and Tuesdays (around $30). Mulligan Public House (250-5910) believes in fried chicken-grilled ham Brophy’s Benedicts ($12). Point Pinos Grill does its fried bird with roasted-green-chile-and-corn waffles ($12.95).

I feel full. But there’s a final stop on this belly cheer tour: The Wharf Marketplace (649-1116). Not so much for the braised short rib soup ($6.95), though that is rich. I’ll go to honor some of the hope to balance the comfort. TWM owner Rick Antle co-directs Tanimura & Antle, the landmark ag company which just allowed employees to buy in as part owners. I’ll eat to that.

~ QUICKBITES ~

• Saffron Café (884-5268) and its fast-casual, all-vegetarian Persian-fusion concept is open in downtown Monterey. More on the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible.
• Voting for Best of Monterey County, including dozens of restaurant categories, ends Thursday, Feb. 23, at midnight.
• The new spot for the original Chopstix Vietnamese (899-2622) is open in the former Taste of Vietnam (1868 Fremont Blvd. in Seaside) and doing furious takeout business with its noodle soups, bahn mi and boba. The old original location is being overhauled and should open as Poke Stix within two months.
• Monterey Public Library (646-5669) has introduced a coffee cafe called Etta’s Eats. Espresso, cappuccinos, lattes and basics like oatmeal, yogurt, chips, fruit, Cup-o-Noodle and burritos 2-5pm Monday-Wednesday, 10am-5pm Thursday, 10am-2pm Saturday-Sunday.
• Carmel Valley Ranch is debuting a Kite Festival on Saturday, April 1.
• Monterey Cookhouse (642-9900) has its liquor license back and they’re making the most of it with house infused vodkas for specialty drinks like sweet Kentucky dream with sage-and-lemon-infused bourbon ($9) and a spicy margarita with cilantro-lime-jalapeño-cucumber tequila ($9) by barkeep Heather Rupe.
• Café Ella at 734 E. Lake in Watsonville (722-0480) celebrates 10 years this week with signature items at 20 percent off, a gift card raffle and balloons and cake Friday, Feb. 24.
• Whisper Charters in Moss Landing is closing at the end of the month. No more wine and cheese on Elkhorn Slough.
• The Walter and Loretta tuna melt at incognito Cafe Beach (899-4544) overlooking the Pacific is named for a couple who’s come every weekday for 35 years.
• Friday, Feb. 24, Gusto (899-5825) celebrates its second anniversary with a special appetizer and a glass of Italian Prosecco with each reservation.
• Community-Supported Agriculture Day sprouts Friday, Feb. 24.
• Tarpy’s (647-1444) hosts a four-course dinner and wine pairing ($85) for “Steinbeck Night” Thursday, April 9.
• Coach John Wooden: “Don’t confuse activity for achievement.”