Chicken & Waffles
Why is chicken and waffles a thing?
Seriously, the urge to smother crispy fried chicken in a cloying syrup should draw culinary ire. That so many servings of the dish rest on dreary waffles or wallow helplessly in maple-flavored sap would appear further evidence that it should be returned to church basements.
And yet… The chicken and waffles at Crema show just why the unlikely combination is such a favorite. Drizzle it with syrup and a bite transforms from earthy and bittersweet to malty and rustic, with traces of pepper and herbs twirling through hints of toffee, as the maple interacts with meat and crispy, Belgian-style waffle. Even the sausage gravy – enough to give one pause before reaching for the vessel of syrup – benefits from the sweet touch.
Yes, the chicken can be a bit on the dry side. Purists may scoff at fried strips replacing legs or thighs, along with the use of white country gravy. But chefs have been keen to play with common fare, first dressing up burgers then mac ‘n’ cheese, tater tots and so on.
It’s nice to see chicken and waffles receiving similar treatment.
CREMA 481 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove. 324-0347, cremapg.com
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