Bright, fruity wine from Silvestri offers more than than one expects.

Say you strolled up to a fruit stand – a very specific one. No plums, no bananas, no pineapple and barely any apples, just baskets overloaded with pears and nectarines, with a few strays.

Yes, it would be a bit odd in real life. But when pouring Silvestri’s 2017 Pinot Gris, it’s easy to imagine. The fruits are at their peak, with crisp pear and juicy nectarine gushing from the rim. Hints of sharp lemon and tart apple flit around the edges, creating a lean and brisk sensation.

The straw-colored wine performs a little sleight of hand, however. Unlike many brisk Pinot Gris options out there, Silvestri’s – called “Ala,” after the owner’s daughter – doesn’t snap to a close. Instead, it lingers on the palate, flexing as much as a dry white wine can and showing ripples of ginger and gentle spice. The finish lasts long enough to reveal a musty minerality, as well.

That’s quite a lot, but there’s more. Even on the nose, the wine offers wisps of fruit touched to honey and thin drips of almond milk that lurk as the dewy impression of pear begins to cider.

SILVESTRI VINEYARDS, Seventh between Dolores and San Carlos, Carmel. 625-0111, silvestrivineyards.com